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| - ...The room at JB is sexy, bright and clean. Unlike its sister restaurant, Guu, as well as practically every other restaurant we've visited lately, the noise is at an optimal buzz. I can hear my partner, I can hear the background tunes, and I don't wake up the next day sounding like a 60 year old chain-smoker. It's incredible how much more comfortable the experience becomes when I'm not fighting a roaring speaker to get my drink order in right. Not only is the ambiance comfortable, but the temperature is cozy as well. With the door far from most of the seating, and a second door shielding diners the -20 F wind, I can confidently abandon my extra sweater and dine pleasantly in a flowy blouse.
Within moments of being sat, one of our servers (there seemed to be many throughout the night) welcomed us with sincere regard and offered us water or tea. The rest of the evening followed theme with genuine concern, hospitality and smiles. Even the chefs were inviting and warm, accepting a shot of Sake from us with an honest bow, and later treating us to some of the pickled burdock he was prepping for his mis en place. On the servers' end, cocktails were promptly delivered, and our glasses were consistency refilled (both with sake and hot water for tea). Similarly, food emerged from the kitchen at a brisk but comfortable pace, getting us in and out in 1 hour 20 minutes without ever feeling rushed. While we shared encounters with several staff members throughout the night, each one seemed equally eager to please, responding to menu questions with confidence or promptly confirming answers with more experienced colleagues.
This communication was especially made evident through the careful attention of the bar. While my server had done an incredible job recommending and describing cocktails and sake, the young bartender made a point to stop by our seats to reinforce our choices. And I'm glad he did, because with head bartender, J.R. Graham (of Parts and Labour), offering 15 sakes, an international selection of wine, shochu, beer and about 10 housemade cocktails, the were no shortage of temptations to submit to. After starting with a smooth and belly-warming green tea, he ended up opting for the 10 oz bottle of 60% Ryozeki Yamahal and later a beautiful Umeshu Plum Wine from Japan.
Utilizing ingredients like house melon liqueur, pomegranate shochu, matcha syrup, and shiso, my eye was drawn straight to Graham's cocktails so I sampled both the JaBistro Slipper (house melon liqueur, Cointreau, lemon, maraschino cherry) and PCT (pomegranate shochu, Cointreau, tequila). The former was floral and refreshing with a real (that is, not sugar-soaked florescent) maraschino cherry waiting to bring satisfaction to the otherwise disappointment of concluding a tasty drink. The latter was the bartenders special, and like the first cocktail, was neither heavy nor too sweet, but it could have done well with a little sour note to liven it up a touch.
Unlike the extensive and explanatory drink menu, the food offerings (broken into sashimi, sushi and bistro fare) were stated with minimal descriptions (i.e. sashimi platter). After some deliberation, and a bit of consultation with our server and the chef, we decided to share the following:
Kani: Soft Shell Crab with Chili ($15)
A generous serving of tempura battered crab portioned into equal 3-bite servings and perched upon a bed of what was described to us as "chili". As I eagerly attacked the layers of crackling golden crust, I was met with a scorching hot explosion of moisture and meat. I feverishly fanned the flames and switched over to the more tepid chili. While the chili was fresh and light, the whole dish screamed for more assertive flavours. There was no heat, no sweet, no acid to cut the heavy fry-action, and I wished the whole dish had been more assertively seasoned so I could appreciate the should-be delight of being deep-fried. A good dish with addictive potential, but needing a little work.
Jabistroll: Salmon, Snow Crab, Uni, Cucumber, Tobiko ($22)
I enjoyed the textural contrast of it's exquisite pop of the tobiko against the tender grains of shari. Inside, however, I found it's contents lacking structure. While I admit I'm no expert with the chopsticks, both my parter and I found the pieces a little hard to keep together. More importantly, while the menu description promised cucumber, I longed for a more definitive crunch of a fresh or pickled vegetable component against the overwhelming number of soft components. From a flavour perspective, however, the roll was one of the best I've ever tasted, with the creamy uni and delicately sweetness of the salmon and crab balanced out by the salty roe....
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