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| - Yasu was planned about a month in advance as the grand finale of my latest trip to the city. I had never experienced high end sushi in Toronto, and wanted to try. It's almost difficult to refer to Yasu as a sushi restaurant, because it's such a gorgeously unique, intimate experience.
Upon arrival you're warmly greeted by both hostesses and immediately seated, and provided with some fresh green tea. There are only ten seats in the restaurant, which is why I made the reservations so far in advance. As far as I know, it is full during both seatings every day.
Shortly after 6 PM, the show began. My friend and I arrived first and so got what, in my estimation, was the best spot: right next to the sushi chef and owner, along the shortest side of the bar. For the next two hours we watched him artfully, carefully, provide about 15 varieties of nigiri.
Yasu shines, I had read, in what unusual and very fresh fish it is able to source. Both proved to be very true. Each fish was described to us by the chef, and in this he was assisted by the hostesses who gracefully float around with tablets that illustrate the fish when it is whole.
I ate some fish I had had before, mostly in the US, such as fluke, mackerel (two varieties were served), or fatty tuna. And they were all wonderful. The chef lightly brushes each fish with a housemade soy-wasabi glaze, and encourages you to ask for either more or less. But I also ate some nigiri I hadn't had anywhere else: bluefin tuna, baby sardine, Alaskan salmon roe, or monkfish foie gras. Each piece was beautiful, fascinating, and very different in texture, taste, and feel from the last.
Occasionally, pieces are accented very lightly with some form of garnish or added flavour. Be it a finely chopped white radish, some thin ginger paper, a smoky flavour, or a touch of fresh wasabi, watching the chef meticulously craft each identical piece was an amazing experience.
As the night progresses, the diners become more friendly and intimate with the chef and with each other. While the two chefs do not speak to one another at all, they are happy to chat and joke with patrons without losing focus. The size of Yasu is perfect for a party of two to appreciate the breadth of the experience.
I also opted for the chef's sake pairing and would recommend it for people like me: I was impressed by the detail put into their sake list but don't know enough about it to truly make an informed decision. You get five different sake samples, each slightly larger than two ounces. As with the food itself, each variety is chosen by the chef and explained in some detail, and so you walk out having learned a lot about sake. The citrus dessert sake was the most curious but probably my least favourite.
Yasu is not a place to go every night. It's a place to appreciate on rare occasions, or even just once. Which brings me back to not referring to it as a sushi place. I can eat more conventional sushi every day, anywhere, but this was a unique experience that's meant to enjoy, educate, and savour.
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