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  • For many years, I have whisked past this former Amtrak rail car that is nestled in the suburb of Bethel Park near an old railroad overpass. A jagged slab of concrete, the only remaining portion of that overpass, is shaped like a fictional nation on a fictional map and juts out from behind the metallic rail car, peppered with 30 year-old spray-painted band names. One car is for dining, the caboose is for boozing. On a windy and chilling Saturday afternoon, I finally made it a point to visit, if for no other reason than to be able to say that I did, especially considering that I've been to their sister restaurant in Greentree. Aside from some argumentative, parking lot drama that occurred in full view of patrons between a young mother and her teenaged son, this was a much less rowdy and much more subdued experience than our dinner at Duke's II months back, our efficient, mild-mannered server making our late lunch all the more relaxing. Our appetizer was comprised of deep fried pickle chips served with ranch dressing, and once they cooled off, we eviscerated these Southern snacks joyfully. The breading stayed put and did not overcoat the tart coins of preserved cucumber that we tamed via the creamy dipping sauce. Some spectacular battered fries and a competent cole slaw accompanied my rib sandwich. Made up of rib meat pulled straight off of the bone and amply heaped between two halves of a spongy burger bun, the meaty hunks of subtly smoky pork were slathered in a Maple Bourbon BBQ sauce that married syrup to liquor exquisitely. The BBQ orthodoxy may disapprove or think me to be an insane liar, and I have no clue as to how their BBQ'ed proteins are prepared exactly (I saw no smoker present), but I relished the caramelized, the candied, the juicy, the savory, the alcohol, and the lardiness of this sandwich like a heretic would a church scandal. Dessert was an unassuming wedge of apple pie. No frills, crumbs on top, mild, refrigerated enjoyment was had And to think it took me 18 years (I used to work at the former Hills Department Store that is now a Lowe's around the bend) to come see the other Duke, pilgrim... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adz3VGki-BU
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