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| - "Fruit is a gamble. I know that going in." - Jerry Seinfeld.
Well, that's the premise of most markets, both public and private. When you pick up a fruit or a vegetable you go with the premise that it'll could be disappointing, and once you buy in, you can't give it back and ask for a refund. When it comes to peaches, there is nothing more disappointing than a mealy, bland specimen that costs 2 for a buck and shipped all the way from Chile. Or behold the modern tomato available in supermarkets - picked when still somewhat green, shipped from some farm thousands of miles away, gassed with Ethylene at the local distributor to produce that red color, and because of that, it's never quite as sweet, ripe and satisfying as the farmstand/heirloom varietals found fresh near the field.
Now, suppose there is a better way. Suppose the greengrocer generously slices off heaps of their wares so you can sample it before you buy. Is that mango truly tart and chock full of B12? Are the plums as sugar sweet as promised? What about the peaches? Are they crispy and imbued with Ontario sunshine? What about the tomatoes? Are they ripe juicy and unmistakably savory, the way you want for a lovely sauce or just out of hand eating at Parc de Mount Royal? Well, if you are up for that, welcome to Marche Jean-Talon (MJT).
MJT is a marketplace run by MPM (marche publics de Montreal), which is a public cooperative that runs several markets in Montreal. If you have been to Atwater in Little Burgundy or Maisonneuve near Olympic Park, it's one of theirs. What makes MJT special is its location. It's in Little Italy, 3 minute walk from the Jean-Talon metro, and 5 minutes from the 55/Blvd St Laurent bus line. The place is constantly crowded, so much more so that parking is difficult and driving in the marche banned during weekends.
The issue with many markets is weather - most are not open during winters, and Montreal is famous for its brutal cold winters. MJT actually shrinks and grows during the seasons - if you are here around labor day you'll be greeted with fresh corn from the South Shores of Quebec, and during that time local vendors (like M. Deneault's "le roi du maiz" stand) will sell you freshly boiled corn right on the spot for instant consumption. Other times there might be freshly roasted potatoes, and fresh basil, herbs and garlic. The tomatoes are usually grown in hothouses nearby in Southern Quebec or Ontario, so they are usually picked riper than their US counterparts. During winters the outdoor sections are closed, but the indoor stalls will have items on display - eggs of every variety and provenance are on offer here, there are bottles of maple syrups galore, and the fruits and veggies are still present due to international shipping at other produce regions.
As many visitors to France will tell you, the French takes their fruits and legumes seriously, and shows them off with a pride almost non-existent anywhere else. The same trait carries over to the Quebecois. Here, bouquets of cauliflowers are artfully arranged, lettuce and celeries are on display with great pride, and baskets of fruits and vegetables are put together as much for visual enjoyment as it is for satisfying your palate. Of course, this brings me to the best part of Marche Jean-Talon - most if not all of the greengrocers have a platter of their wares cut into bite sized pieces and placed at arms-height, both to prevent children from unsupervised snacking, and to allow the vendors to tell who they have ensnared. Doesn't those oranges look lovely? Would you like some? How about those apples? Sure, have one. Oh, the tomatoes, the pears, the grapes, the mangos, the peaches. The more clever vendors will stand there with the fruit and carve a slice for you right there and talk about its progeny, the freshness and how lovely the day is. With MJT, fruit isn't that much of a gamble. If it tastes great and the price is right, grab a bag and buy some. You'll end up with several bags before you know it.
MJT isn't only about the produce. They also have cheesemongers (qui lait cru? being one of them, they are a raw milk cheese specialist), fishmongers (La Boîte aux Huîtres, or the oyster box serves fresh oysters right on the spot for you, and they have an outdoor bar during the warmer months), butchers, bakers and dessert/pastry makers. A thing to definitely visit during the summer months is their ice cream stand (lines out the door), and at the winter try Brûlerie Aux Quatre Vents for coffee/pasteis de nata, maybe the creperie stand, perhaps a grilled cheese or a sausage or the Moroccan stand for mint tea and pastries. It's a guaranteed good time for all.
Of course, don't neglect the other marches in Montreal. They are all worthy of a visit!
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