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| - "Chef Marc Cohen and a few of his colleagues from Sparrow have struck out on their own, just a block or two from their former home, and it means that this stretch of St-Laurent (between St-Joseph and Bernard) now has an even deeper roster. It also means that Cohen has an opportunity to show off his chops a little more, and that's exactly what he's done. His menu is short and sweet, but it still manages to display scope and daring, and it's loaded with tempting options (especially if you're open to all things offal). Standouts include succulent morsels of squid with samphire, skewered duck hearts with a celeriac remoulade (my pick for best appetizer in the city, at the moment), a hefty pork chop au jus with wilted radicchio and sautéed apples, and an offal "salad" (including kidneys, tongue, and some lovely pickled walnuts). All that plus a top-notch service team, a charming, extremely knowledgeable sommelière, and a positively killer wine list."
Since I wrote the above, things just keep getting better. A recent visit was absolutely note-perfect, from the oysters, to the delicate bay scallops and potato galette appetizer, to the mains, which included a heaven-sent (and wonderfully herbal) pork chop and a hearty, immensely satisfying marrow bone and beef pie, to the wine (Métras Fleurie!).
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