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  • I had been driving the 506 Carlton streetcar for a few weeks (oh, the headache...), and every time I passed by this charming Scottish pub I felt summoned to peek within. Although it was a bit of a trek for me from my west end pad, eventually I succumbed to the urge. Several large groups of diners told me two things: that the food must be decent, and that I was lucky to get a seat at the bar. After driving the 506 (did I mention the headache?), I was definitely in a comfort-food sort of mood, so I asked my server which I wanted: their mac and cheese, or their bangers and mash. Asking a server to pick on my behalf between two choices is a game I play. I'm rarely disappointed, and their response often tells me a lot about a place. His suggestion was the bangers and mash. Whoah. Yum. Ok, I have to admit that Scottish food doesn't exactly come to my mind when I think of haute cuisine. French, certainly. Italian, Japanese, fine. But sausages with mashed potatoes? "Decent?" No, much better than "decent." McGugan's somehow manages to find a zone where meat-n-potatoes Scots fare meets tres elegance. Think ruffled kerchiefs with a claymore. It was obvious that the mashed was made fresh, with wonderfully pulverized skin-on taters in a glazed onion sauce. But those sausages were completely unique, with a peppery undertone that made it obvious that no one picked these oinkers up from the local No Frills. No, my server told me, they came from a specific Queen Street butcher with a reputation for supreme quality. I also chose to ignore my diet and explore the bread pudding. Holy God. I almost ordered seconds. Ok, the servings could have been larger for my spoiled American palate, but this was clearly a case of quality superceding quantity. Definitely worth a repeat trip or an enjoyable meal that's both stick-to-the-ribs and elegant. And who can argue with those decadent shelves of single malt goodness?
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