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  • Ever since the venerable Scruffy Murphy's moved down the street about a year ago, I've been waiting with baited breath to see what was going to take its place. Walking into Four Barrel Holly's on a Friday night, I was immediately taken aback by the serious changes made to the space. What was once a dark and somewhat claustrophobic venue is now bright and open, with the walls adorned with all kinds of funky artwork (including a heart made from paint cans). We were shown to a table inside and began perusing the joint's promising menu. (I should note, however, that while our waitress was very friendly, I wasn't once asked if I wanted a second beer. Even the guy who kept refilling our water didn't ask, which was annoying.) We decided to share a couple of appetizers: Fried Okra and Parmesan: When I saw this on the menu, I immediately got excited because fried okra was a staple on my trips down south during my adolescence. It's a dish that'd come breaded and deep-fried and served in bite-sized pieces. This isn't that. The okra is served whole and sprinkled with parmesan. And it's fine, I guess. We ate all of it, but it's just so plain and kind of flavorless. Fried Calamari and Shrimp with Bam Bam Sauce: Again, this is a perfectly acceptable dish. The various pieces of calamari and shrimp are cooked pretty well, but there's no real flavor here aside from the basic breading. (Compare and contrast this with the decadent, glorious version served at Pizzeria Libretto, for example.) I will admit the Bam Bam Sauce was very good, at least. I have no doubt that I'll return to Four Barrel Holly's given its close proximity to my apartment and its cool, friendly atmosphere. But I might just stick to drinks next time.
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