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| - Rolling down Route 42, Pearl Road, into Brunswick, it can be very easy, in the blink of an eye, to miss a gem of a restaurant - Bianca's Italian Restaurant. Located on Beverly Hills Drive just past Mapleside Farms may be one of the best kept secrets in the area.
I headed out on a Friday night, ostensibly, to see "The Poptarts," a local singing group that specializes in the girl group sounds of the 1960s. They have made Bianca's a regular monthly gig. While I hadn't decided on whether it would be a dining option as well, some research on the establishment was needed. As a regular contributor to the Urbanspoon and Yelp websites, the information and ratings there have been influential in making choices. And the lack of information on Bianca's did not seem to reveal extensive commentary by area diners. The same level was always found on the Facebook page. Lots of "likes" but few remarks.
Plans were made and a table reservation procured (via Facebook). Upon arriving at the restaurant, the parking lot confirmed the need for a reservation. My first thought was that the Poptarts must have a sizeable following. And while that may be true, it became obvious from discussions with the patrons, it wasn't the only reason for the restaurant's popularity.
It was a sell out crowd and we were fortunate to get a bar setting as other late arriving diners were advised that the wait could be considerable.
We were greeted by Diane Amato, the owner's daughter, with whom I had chatted on Facebook about getting a reservation. I promptly expressed my needs for dinner and she assured me I wouldn't be disappointed.
Now I readily admit that the search for good, authentic Italian food is risky sometimes. It has been the subject of a number of my reviews. I can be very fussy and opinionated about it. I lived in Naples, Italy for a number of years and have been able to recreate a number of the recipes myself. So if I am dining out, it had better be better than what I do at home.
My dining companion and I decided to play it safe. The crowd was thick and even top kitchens can have bad nights when overwhelmed.
The bartender, Brenda, took our order. Just want to see how well they do the basics - give me the house and the meat sauce over pasta with sides of the meat balls and sausage. (All items that are advertised as made fresh daily.) Refreshing to find a restaurant employee who knows what I want when the term "al dente" is used, too.
We received our wine orders and a bread basket. Not sure of the vintage but the merlot and white wines served were smooth and enjoyable. The bread, though perhaps not made on premise, was fresh and served with two kinds of flavored butters.
While waiting for our dinners, we had a chance to talk with the owner, Debbie Amato, who has been associated with the site for nigh on 25 years as a bartender for 9 years and then owner for the past 16. We sparred a bit about the impact of social networking and modern technology - a result of my on line conversation with her daughter, Debbie, who readily uses it. (Mom doesn't care for it and would rather manage things the conventional way.) Digital inclinations aside, Debbie knows her cuisine. Drawing on her Sicilian heritage, (and yes, if you know Italy, there is a difference), the attention given to our selections, was immediately evident. I have been in too many places where the dish could easily be described as ketchup on mushy noodles. Bianca's sauce stands up and salutes - a rich, thick mixture adorned with fresh basil on pasta cooked to perfection. And the meatballs were moist and large. No commercial precooked golf balls here. A
sweet Italian sausage with fennel seed completed the package. At around $13 to $15 a plate, the portion was well valued.
Looking over the room, I could see that other diners were fully satisfied. The aromatic smells of a fresh scallop dish next to me sealed the decision for a return visit for something more complex - the veal I am told comes highly recommended.
In this information age, I am a proponent of "googling it" to find the intelligence data in making an informed choice. It is not the only method to finding a treasure and sometimes you take a chance. Though Bianca's digital signature may not be huge, its clientele may not vocal on line, but maybe that's an "omerta." (Fans of Mario Puzo will know what it means.) Let's just say it's unfortunate if you haven't been here. You've missed something.
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