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  • Ever since I watched Anthony Bourdain visit Vietnam and heaped praises on the bun bo hue prepared by the "Lunch Lady" street vendor in Saigon, I've always made an effort to try to sample this humble dish wherever I go. I tend to have a higher appreciation of dishes that are conceived using ingredients commonly discarded or overlooked rather than the high end stuff. Having read multiple stellar reviews and even with a separate sign outside the restaurant that simply says in all caps BUN BO HUE, it seems I had no choice but to sample their pho de resistance (a French-Vietnamese pun seems appropriate). In the sitcom How I Met Your Mother, the main character Ted Moseby describes the impression that he makes on girls in the form of songs on the radio...."I'm not some easily digested top 40 pop song, I'm complex and require multiple listens... I'm Stairway to Heaven" Whereas beef and chicken pho are the top 40 hits of Vietnamese noodle soups, I feel that Bun Bo Hue is Stairway to Heaven requiring multiple tastings to discover new things to appreciate with each delicious bite. A subtle yet rich beef/pork broth with deep notes of lemongrass and just the right touch of spice, the soup uses round chewy rice noodles akin to bucatini as opposed to the linguini-like counterpart in traditional pho. There are also various pieces of pork feet, pork bloodcake, steamed pork loaf, and beef shank and tendon. Further complexity is provided with vietnamese coriander, mint and some vietnamese herbs that escape my recollection. Finally, a fresh plate of colorful purple and green cabbage along with jullienned herbs and wedges of lime add bright notes of texture and tartness to complete the dish. The beauty of the dish is how each component is distinct yet not overpowering so that every tasty bite is a unique experience on their own. Of the various bun bo hue I've sampled, this one definitely ranks up with the best since none of the meat components including the pork blood cubes are overcooked (a common mistake) and the meat around the pork knuckle is particularly tender and flavorful. Whereas some dishes will elicit a party in your mouth, this one will be a symphony in your mouth that strike all the right notes and may require or compel multiple tastings. Do remember to bring CASH!
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