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  • Mother's Dumplings is on several lists as the number one best or one of the five to eight absolute best Chinese restaurants in Toronto. It is a perfectly respectable establishment - and it does what it does extremely well. But I think part of the cult of Mother's Dumplings comes from the rarity of what it offers rather than the actual taste thrills themselves. Mother's Dumplings is a Northeastern regional Chinese restaurant. Manchurian food is hard to come by in the US and Canada. So what they have at Mother's you will not easily find at competing restaurants. Northeastern Chinese is the Chinese equivalent of British food. Simple dishes based on the principles of good ingredients well prepared with a minimum of ornamentation by the cook. Dumplings are perfect dough - ground meat and one spice. Pancakes have maybe two ingredients, one or both of which are bland. It is hearty stuff - you fill up fast. It is total comfort food. They offer condiments at the table to mix your own sauce to dip your dumplings or whatever into ... and frankly you will need it. In a Cantonese or Szechuan restaurant, the sauces will be complex, the ingredient lists will be long and flavors will move around as you eat your way through the dish. Here - what you see is what you get. So what makes Mother's so good? a) Their dumping dough is magnificent. You will probably never get better dumpling dough in your lifetime. b) The fillings do taste strongly of the one spice they put in the filling (dill, chives mushroom or whatever) There are an awful lot of dumplings out there with mediocre dough and the filling has a restrained taste of steamed-out meat cut with steamed out cabbage. In the dumpling horse race - Mother's wins by 88 lengths. But even the best of Chinese dumplings are still the Cornish pasties of Asian food. If you think Cornish pasties are the best food Europe has to offer, the French and the Italians would like to have a word with you.
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