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| - Toronto has four good top-rope gyms in Toronto. Each gym has a distinct personality, and there are many pros and cons to each. Joe Rockhead's is, in my opinion, the least appealing of the four, but I want to clarify that this doesn't mean it's not a good gym. It's a fine gym!
LOCATION: 4/5
If you live/work downtown, this is your gym. It's in the heart of Liberty Village, easily accessible by bike, or car. TTC not so much - King street stinks.
CROWDEDNESS: 1/5
This was definitely the busiest I've seen a gym. I asked at the front and they told me it was an "off-night" which scared me right off of ever going there on a weekend.
SELECTION: 1/5
Others have pointed out that the gym is mostly made up of 5.9s and 5.10s which was accurate when I was there. On one hand, I recognize this is a popular level for most climbers, but considering how crowded the gym was, I found myself waiting often to switch into a route. My friend was having an off week and would have preferred some easier routes, but there was very little for him. So there was lots of waiting, and asking if people were switching out...I don't mind waiting once or twice if I'm curious about a specific route, but I do mind when every route at your level is taken, including the ones you've easily sent already.
ROUTES: 4/5
Most of the routes were fascinating and challenging. I definitely appreciated the creativity put into their designs.
BOULDERING: 4/5
My friend was late to arrive, and I found myself staring at an enticing Bouldering room. Often I find myself turned off by designs that have a massive gap between 'for kids' and 'I hope you train on a hangboard'. There were plenty of V2s and 3s that drew me in, and challenged my strength and balance without making me feel like my forearms would explode. Hard floor, though. There was an additional Bouldering section with a padded floor in the back, but I didn't get a chance to check it out.
PRICE: 1/5
At 18 bucks, it's the priciest Toronto gym.
STAFF: 5/5
Everyone seemed super nice. No complaints.
MUSIC: ?
I didn't really hear any, which is much better than the climbing gym 90s rock standard.
GENERAL FACILITIES: 2/5
Small locker room considering the crowd, and I didn't really see a lot of gym equipment. Comparably, I think the other gyms have better peripheral amenities.
All considered, it's great for downtown climbing, but I would advise going during off hours.
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