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| - How do you invoke "Will Power" (as in "Will" Shakespeare) in a restaurant review ? Read on.
In its hectic, halcyon days of yore (think when the band - not The Band, but Guess Who - was playing 'Shakin' All Over'..."), Rol San was THE eating establishment for authentic Cantonese cuisine in the venerable Spadina strip in Toronto. Every day, pilgrim diners flocked to this little mecca, paid their obeisance, dropped their gold coins, and left shaking their heads and rubbing their bellies with glee. Thursdays and weekends, the line will often be literally out the door, lunch and dinner, even if it's 20 below outside with a thrashing wind. Soon, the reputation spread, to a point where the hole-in-the-wall expanded - they took on extra space in the back, and STILL the hordes gathered patiently at its door step.
So on a visit to TO last week, we were anxious (and curious) to check out "House of the Dragon Come Alive" again. But oh, what a falling off was there - this "Hyperion" has indeed become a satyr. Rol San used to be great value - that was one of the allures. Now the word "gouge" is well ingrained in their lexicon. You don't WANT to know what they gouged for the "market price" double lobster in ginger and scallion. But here's the thing - if it tasted half as good as before, I would not begrudge success a few extra pennies of profit. The food was not bad, but thoroughly ordinary. The "crab meat" fish bladder soup was made with Krab! The tsuen tsiu chicken was adorned with those deep fried green leaves mysteriously having been chopped up almost into little bits, making them highly grease-retentive. Equally mystifying was how, in the seafood nest ($14), they cut what were pretty good size shrimps into three pieces, making for a horrible presentation - the shrimps and the entire dish looked scrooge-y when brought to the table. Most of the dishes were almost indelicate, amateurish attempts compared to the many many lesser-known and less expensive alternatives pretty much in any major neighborhood in Toronto. So we left shaking our heads, albeit for a different reason; instead of rubbing our bellies, we were rubbing our behinds, where it felt like we've been dealt a swift one.
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