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  • The problem with Corbin's is I was there last week and cant remember what I had. I ordered two things off the bar menu - one was fried calamari which was limp and soggy, and I cant remember the other thing. It's a relatively pleasant and comfortable contemporary space that has several things going for it. People often use the descriptor "neighborhood" which I think is apt, especially in the bar, where regulars seem to have a good time. The gals serving food are winners, and the extensive menu hinting of great expectations never fails to make my mouth water. And it's genuinely gratifying to have a place on the outskirts of Sunnyslope that's visibly a step up from this neighborhood's characteristically comatose dives. But then the food comes and....I dont know. It's not terrible and I've never taken anything back. Let's just say there's not a particularly deft hand in the kitchen. The presentations are nice enough - some are quite nice actually - a puff pastry chicken pot pie comes to mind. But I've eaten here half a dozen times and have yet to eat anything that I'd reorder. Their chicken's been dry and chewy on more than one occasion (maybe they should brine it?) and other entrees I've sampled have all the zip of those at Luby's Cafeteria. Ok, that's a little harsh, but seriously, I'm not a fussy spice maven or anything, and Corbin's fare is just, across the board, MISSING something. Dining companions have confirmed this but we cant put our fingers on it. Inadequate seasonings? Skimpy or weak sauces? Improperly cooked meats? These are frustrated cries in the wilderness more than Seftelian assertions. All I know is the food looks terrific but there's never a party in my mouth at Corbin's - that memorable moment where you bite into something really savory and moan with satisfaction. And it frustrates the heck out of me because they seem to be doing so much ELSE right and I'd like to see them (wildly) succeed. Maybe they could wow diners and deliver more consistent quality if they consolidated their menu by half or even two thirds - but they need to figure out something to light a fire in the kitchen and allow this cheerful little spot to maximize its potential.
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