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  • I was really looking forward to my first visit, knowing that if anyone can pull off a true marriage of the foodways of Cleveland and Texas barbecue, it's Michael Symon. And on many fronts, he didn't disappoint. The spare ribs had a nice tug and bit cleanly off the bone. I didn't think I liked spaeztle, but Mabel's version changed my mind -- savory and buttery with a nice kick from the cabbage. The smoked beets were a good pairing with the heavy meats, though I didn't detect any smoke -- and I think Mabel's fried pig ears might be my new addiction. The accompaniments were solid, including the Cleveland kraut, pickles, bread. Sauce was fine, though I mostly left it alone. I was most excited about the brisket, knowing how hard it is to find solid brisket up here as a native Texan. We ordered a pound to share, half moist (from the point) and half lean (from the flat). The meat had good flavor, with a judiciously applied rub and balanced smoke. Texture was pretty good, save for a few dry and stringy pieces -- mostly the lean, although the moist brisket had some too. Part of the reason I think is that Mabel's cuts its brisket too thick. It's served in chunks rather than pencil-width slices, and some of it was cut with the grain rather than against. Overall, I'm pleased with my visit. The brisket is sure to improve with time, and I look forward to trying the lamb ribs and kielbasa on future visits.
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