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  • The northern area of Mexico, the region represented in most of the meals served here, has been referred to as dangerously "so far from god, so close to the United States." And indeed, this restaurant struggles with these two pressures. There is no sour cream or other indicators of Tex Mex, but on the other hand, concessions are made to beef, which has a higher profile here than in mexican meals. Fish, accessible to Mexicans thanks to two ocean coastlines and many rivers, is featured in a delicious taco. Spanish rice is the unique Mexican variety. Corn, central to the the Indigenous heritage of central mexico, is in many dishes. But,separate servings of salad, common in North America but not Mexico, are standard here too. i like to think of the two pressures as creative tension; it's the force behind folk fusion, which is happening to cuisines from around the world. One aspect that's a little much is North American portion size. My wife and I order one dish, and both of us leave feeling full. I celebrate the folk fusion trend in my book, the No Nonsense Guide to World Food, and i am pleased to be able to celebrate it anew whenever I eat here.
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