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  • Statues of ancient warriors and deities greeted us cordially along with an elderly woman and a young, pert server as Kay and I entered Apsara Cafe's doors this past Monday evening before the Lacuna Coil concert at The Rex Theater, making my end of the lady's belated natal day observance memorable for her. Kay was in command, so she chose the Bacon-Wrapped Scallops. A tart, micro-salad of greens, allumetted cucumber, and ornately cut carrots served as a bed for the trio of brackish, saccharine bits of plump, pork-draped, skewered mollusks. Whet the appetite they did. My entree consisted of something called Saramann. Similar in texture to a beef or lamb curry, the supple, cubed tenderloin bobbed up and down in the sweet, milky, lightly acidic pool of brown gravy that held whole roasted peanuts coconut, star anise, cloves, cinnamon, lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves, shallots, and garlic. As I spooned the sweet, meaty brew onto the fluffy mounds of white rice, I was once again reminded of how similar cuisines from around the globe can be and was left wondering who borrowed from whom. A four-piece "dessert sampler" included the following: Golden Balls, Black Sweet Rice, Sweet Rice Cake, and Pumpkin Custard. The Golden Balls were a take on the Indian treat known as Gulab Jamun with its spongy cake and syrupy, fruity topping. The Pumpkin Custard was the densest. The rice cakes were an exercise in contrast -- the black sweet rice coming off as licorice-like while the sweet rice was rather mild. A highly engrossing quartet of confection, each morsel was a welcome detour from the rich, extravagant desserts I've grown accustomed to. With yuppies, hipsters, and blue-collar folk enjoying themselves inside or skipping in and out with takeaway bags as we dined, it was apparent how Apsara has quickly and comfortably entrenched itself into East Carson's restaurant scene. Like sushi, Thai fare is no longer trendy and exotic; it's becoming a part of Americana. And for that, I am gladdened, establishments such as Apsara broadening tastes with ease, grace and a sense of tradition and hospitality. P.S. We had the dining room to ourselves for the first few minutes of our meal. Business soon perked up quite nicely on a weeknight no less.
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