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  • Note: Apparently, this changed hands shortly after I reviewed The Smokehouse, whose signage still stands alongside the Swhinery's own tattered banners since according to the likable owner, he's admittedly too lazy to change it. Personally, I think the old name should have stuck in order to avoid confusion, but whatever. Damned if I knew there was a Sunday brunch buffet happening in the South Hills complete with live blues music! That's what Kay and I found early one weekend afternoon as we hunted down eats prior to a shopping trip. Amidst the slow burning guitars, gentle thump of drum, the mild throb of bass, and the hurting, feeling vocals was a magnanimous spread that included such homemade staples as omelets, a fantastic potato salad, biscuits with sausage gravy, greens, carved ham, bacon, pulled pork, waffles, home fries, crab cakes, pasta, and a bar with raw mussels and clams, all of which ranged from average (the crab cakes) to superb (the biscuits and gravy). A Southern wedding-like feast brought cordially to Pittsburgh, we almost thought we were in Memphis, especially as that soulful music moved the air. When I expressed my minor disappointment that no ribs were to be found, Lenny (?) immediately brought each of us out a rack of his honeyed, sticky finger, chops-licking, porcine St. Louis candy bars AT NO EXTRA CHARGE, and they were almost as good as they were when last we dined here. We were told they were "leftovers" that were merely reheated, and considering the circumstances, I can't complain (or swhine, haw!) about their lack of smoky essence, but properly fatty and fall-apart tender they were, that sauce tasting as if some strawberry preserves were involved in its composition. The interiors still need a bit of work, but I urge thee to head up or down West Liberty Avenue and give The Swhinery (I'm lukewarm about the name) a whirl.
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