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| - In Toronto, this is the place for smoked meat. Full stop.
I am a true connesueur of all things deli - Katz's in SoHo to (the late lamented) Wolfies/Rascal House in Miami, From Schwartz's to Corky &Lenny's in the land of Cleve all the way to Canters on Fairfax, one of the few good reasons to visit Los Angeles - THIS man knows and loves his deli.
Walking in to Caplansky's one is immediately greeted by the aroma of rich, delicious, smokey, briskety goodness - no, make that ...Greatness. If they put that smell in a spray can it would be called "Vegan Be Gone" The modern cleanliness is almost off-putting in terms of meat-cred, but there is something about the place (other than the amazing smell) that gives it a whiff of authenticity. The servers are far too nice and conscientious to work in a proper deli, but this IS Toronto, so one has to make allowances.
Caplansky's does have a very nice menu. The purpose of this menu is for you to decide HOW you would like to consume your smoked meat on this visit. Here are three methods that I can heartily recommend:
Sandwich/Platter - The meat here is fantastic and should certainly be enjoyed in the form preferred by purists as often as possible. NOTE: A smoked meat sandwich consists of rye bread, smoked meat, and either yellow or brown mustard. ANY OTHER INGREDIENT IS AN ABOMINATION. Yeah - I'm talking to you Honey Mustard! And you, if you ask for Miracle Whip again I will have you deported!
Smoked Meat Hash - Caplansky's for breakfast/brunch? Of course! Not only do they serve breakfast, but they serve it bountifully, beautifully, and dutifully until 4am on Friday and Saturday. The hash here is what other hash aspires to be - lean fresh meaty - the perfect blend of veggies, meat and spices - How can something so simple be so good? Try - you'll be hooked. (For those who like the sweet stuff The Leaning Tower is a sugar rush/coma on a plate - but what a way to go....)
Cabbage Borscht - Surprised? Me too! Ordered it one super cold day just to thaw out my frozen innards (only soup they had at that moment) and it is amazing! Big lean chunks of smoked meat in a fresh sweet and sour cabbage laced broth. Like the best cabbage soup you ever had, only better. Sorry Grandma... Unexpected and addictive.
In the interest of science and fair play I have actually tried some of the other items on the menu - there's a lot of good stuff here. Zane is a true chef and some of the specials that I sampled surpass plates costing 5X at some of the more hyperbolic establishments around town. Seriously, every special that I, or anyone that I have dined with, has met with nothing but unqualified raves.
As I write these words of praise I can almost feel the collective angst of your invective flavoured water balloons being hurled in my direction. Ok naysayers - I'm ready. Pardon me while I slip on the outfit in order to play.....
Objection Deflection Ninja - Ha-Hah!
It's not like Schwartz's - Duh! Even Schwartz's isn't like Schwartz's anymore! Since developers have decimated the competitive deli landscape in Montreal - The Great One (yes, Schwartz's is the Gretzky of Smoked Meat) has pared down the menu to the bare essentials in order to keep the price points democratic and the turnover high.
It's not a REAL deli - That's true. This most obvious fact almost led me to give the place a miss entirely. It is, in fact, a "deli-style" restaurant. Now typically - you put "style" after anything good and it denotes a pale imitation. This is one of the primary reasons that I believe in maintaining a life as opposed to the more currently fashionable "lifestyle" Truth be told - I passed Caplansky's by more than a few times. It isn't in the right neighborhood and it looked kind of...well - new. One of the easiest tests for a proper deli is time and typically the good and authentic meter STARTS at the half century mark. But this review isn't about the shell - it's about what's inside - the meat.
There's this place on Bathurst- Let me stop you RIGHT THERE. "This place on Bathurst" has been phoning it in for years. While your fathers uncles cousin Harvey may have experienced the sandwich of his dreams there in 1968 the earth has cooled considerably since then and so has the stuff coming out of there smokers. If they even HAVE smokers.
Although the amazing smoked meat caused love at first bite, it actually took me several visits to truly appreciate the genius that is Zane Caplansky restauranteur. He has taken the core elements of the class Jewish deli and added just the right amount of menu diversification and modernization to make a vital dining establishment for the 21st century. Although I am not capable of doing what he does, I can offer him my highest praise, patronize his establishment regularly, and do my bit to tell the world. Are you listening world?
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