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  • After our edifying visit to the Bechtler, we needed some practical, real sustenance. From the man's memories of the dark days of living and working in Charlotte, he unearthed this gem, and what a bright one it was! I was a little skeptical of his years-old memory of this as great soul food, especially given his vegetarian status at the time. (I mean, hello lard!) But I've learned to trust, and was well-rewarded on this visit. Mert's is a bit tucked away, and doesn't look like much from the sidewalk or even as you step inside. But, for soul food, that's a good thing. A good thing that just kept getting better. Now, I spent some time living in the South as well, and that's where I developed a taste for two of the simplest and best culinary pleasures: greens and beans. And Mert's served up some of the absolute best collards I've ever had: thick and silky, folded on themselves in a heaping mound on the plate, so slightly redolent of a little bacon and sprinkled with lithe ribbony onions. Oh. My. God. I hope I live long enough to learn how to make collards like these.... In other news, the cornbread was phenomenal: dense without being heavy, moist without being crumbly, and actually tasting of cornmeal and buttermilk instead of sugar. My black-eyed peas were savory and straightforward, and the barbecue (while not my absolute favorite Eastern Carolina style) was dripping in a just-sweet red vinegar sauce. Oh, and the red velvet cake was excellent: moist with a ever-so-tangy icing. Did you think I was going to pass that up, once I saw it in its tall cake platter on the counter?! This is why the term "foodie" fails as a designator for people such as myself who avidly seek out the best, most authentic food experiences one can find. There's nothing elite about Mert's, but they prove how difficult it can be to pull off simple perfection.
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