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| - There's no denying the Italian legitimacy of Fabio on Fire. And in an area like Peoria, which is largely considered a culinary joke in comparison to Central Phoenix or Scottsdale, it's definitely a welcoming addition. I've dined at Fabio's on multiple occasions since they first opened, including their very first week of operation. I've watched their popularity rapidly grow to the point where I often question if this particular location is the best choice for what it is they're trying to accomplish.
I'll be honest here. On a good night, Fabio's pizza and pasta are easily comparable to some of the better Italian restaurants you can find in Phoenix. Their butternut squash ravioli, for example, is spectacular when done properly, putting most restaurant's take on the dish to complete shame. On a bad night, however, such as what happened to us recently, the dish was so overwhelming salty that neither myself nor my girlfriend had any desire to finish it.
Their pizzas are stellar and made in that traditional Neapolitan style that I've always preferred. The "Best outside of Italy" or "Best in the U.S." Yelp claims are a bit far-fetched and eye-roll inducing, but for this particular area, it's easily one of the better choices you'll be able to find.
For dessert, they have excellent gelato, as well as a variety of Italian pastries and cookies that are on bakery-styled shelves. Nothing is labeled, but Fabio and company will explain everything if you ask. Some cookies I like more than others, but that's just personal preference. They're good when fresh, but suck when stale. I've experienced both.
What I think hurts Fabio's dining experience for customers, despite actually helping the business itself, is that the place was quickly outed to the locals to the point where Fabio's can quickly transform into a complete zoo when the joint gets slammed. The building isn't really set up well for a sit-down restaurant. Tables are all incredibly close together, servers can barely maneuver around, and it's not uncommon to go largely ignored for long periods of time. When moderately full, the coziness and intimacy works fine, but when large parties decide to dine here, it clogs up the restaurant and makes for a bit of a messy experience. Recently, my girlfriend and I checked in and were quoted 45 minutes for a table. The wait almost ended up being triple, yes, triple that time - clocking in at almost 2.5 hours! Granted, the absurdly large party of 20 diners might have had something to do with it, but when your estimates are off by that much, it might be time to rethink things.
Their whole iPad checkout process is very weird. One of the servers comes by and will simply swipe your card when you're ready to leave, without even giving you the opportunity to look at the actual bill. This is not really an ideal setup for a restaurant, as any billing mistakes will inevitably end up going unnoticed.
My feelings remain mixed. I'm glad that Fabio's is doing well, because their success might help other businesses and chefs realize that West Valley residents are begging for better restaurant options. But the lackluster service on busy nights quickly reveals why I feel that they still have a lot to learn about how to execute on a high level.
I'll be interested to see how Fabio evolves over time. But for now, I'd still give them a solid recommendation. Just hope that you're there on one of their "good" nights and you'll be fine.
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