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| - I never made it to CoCo Osteria so I can't comment about how Malabar compares (if it's even fair to compare two different cuisines). What I can say is this: here's what Charlotte has more than enough of: kinda pricey Italian joints! What Charlotte was woefully short on was Spanish cuisine. I mentioned this briefly in my review of Miro Spanish Grill. If I were a religious man, I'd be tempted to think prayers have been answered. More likely, someone with lots of money and a desire to make more of it saw a serious deficiency in Charlotte's culinary scene and stepped in to address it. Either way, they can have my money!
The decor is very Spanish and even the cozy (a harsher critic might say cramped) dining room reminds me of the tabernas and cafes I've had the inestimable pleasure of visiting in Madrid and Mallorca. The option of sitting outside makes the place even better. They would do better to replace the salsa music with flamenco but forget about all that. Frankly, I'd gladly have them seat me in the dumpster out back with a Ke$ha CD if the food was good enough. And it certainly is.
In fact, the only thing keeping me from giving Malabar 5 stars is that I've only been there once. However, if the 7 tapas, 2 desserts and sangria we ordered are any indication of the rest of the menu, I'll be adding that fifth star soon enough. I just can't give a Spanish restaurant 5 stars until I know for sure that the paella is worthy.
What I can attest to is that the gazpacho was among the best I've had anywhere; the patatas bravas, vaca frita, lomo and chorizo seco were all delicious and the simple pan con tomate was far greater than the sum of its parts. It looked bland but was somehow, mysteriously, very flavorful. Only the yuca frita failed to impress. And still, it was served with a cilantro aioli that was enough to redeem the tapa. As such, it's best to think of the yuca as merely an aioli delivery mechanism. I wouldn't judge you for ignoring the yuca and drinking it straight from the dish and anyone who does surely hasn't tried it and probably thinks too highly of themselves.
Dessert was a coffee/chocolate mousse over ladyfingers and crema Catalana. The mousse was delicious but the crema Catalana was beyond the scope of linguistic description. If wars were not started over religion and resources, they'd be sparked over this stuff. It's like crème brûlée but gooeyer and better. It's like Spain said to France, "Fuck your custard! ¿De qué te gusta me ahora?"
Go there. Buy it. Repeat. That is all.
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