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| - A highly impressive dinner all-around. Fourteen beautiful and well-composed dishes for under $80 (we got the 8-person family-style option) makes this incredibly accessible and worth checking out. Though only hinting at Basque country, the menu and inventiveness is more reminiscent of my experience at Eleven Madison Park - and that was my most memorable meal of 2012.
For me, the first half of the meal superseded the second half. I really, really loved the colourful parade of dishes that celebrated the flavours of summer in a way I haven't experienced on the palate in some time.
Favourites:
--- White Gazpacho ---
Shallow bowls cradled a cluster of compressed cucumber infused with orange blossom. Against these vibrant shades of greens and yellows, a single leaf of sorrel sat, its red veins in colourful contrast against the verdant backdrop. With its pulpy texture, coffee-soaked chia seeds that sat hidden below gave an interesting dimension to the creaminess of the soup. The gazpacho itself was devoid of the traditional chunky texture that comes from processed bread and nuts and retained a subtle garlicky tang. Very refined in composition and lovely way to kick off our meal.
--- Heirloom Tomato ---
Waiting for us next was the heirloom tomato duo. Part 1 was a soft, spongy marshmallow of tangy tomato and a salty smear of parmesan cream. The intense and bright tomato flavour played well with mallow's delicate texture. Really fascinating to eat with it pushing my expectations.
Heirloom tomato, part 2. An eye-popping course in shades of red, green, and yellow accompanied the marshmallows and would usually be plated together. Fried capers burst with briny explosions against the more subtle flavours of kaffir lime-compressed watermelon and the sweet acidity of heirloom tomatoes. Rings of golden kumquat lent a floral citrus note and along the edge of the plate, quenelles of blue cheese mousse added a subtle hint of earthiness. A truly crazy pile of flavours that worked deliciously well.
--- Nordic Shrimp ---
Nordic shrimp sitting with a burnt scallion purée and rolls of compressed romaine hearts. A chermoula sauce (often made of a mixture of herbs, oil, lemon juice, pickled lemons, garlic, cumin, and salt used in Algerian, Moroccan and Tunisian cooking) with spongy banana "biscuit" and cilantro. Delicate and delicious shrimp along with the joy of sucking the shrimp heads were the standouts on this dish.
--- Bone Marrow Gnocchi ---
Bone marrow gnocchi, with celeriac cream, parsley purée, fried garlic, parsley, and snails. Everyone just about lost their minds over this dish and I am pretty certain we could have all eaten a bowl to ourselves. The rich and subtle flavour of marrow with the soft gnocchi and chew of snails - unbelievably good. I loved the tint of green in the gnocchi that came from the addition of parsley.
--- Mushrooms ---
Mushroom lovers take note: golden brown king oysters, yellow hues of chanterelles, and a timbale of cremini and shiitake. Raw peas and a mint purée provide a fresh foil to the earthiness of the mushrooms. Bright yellow mounds of vanilla sabayon gave the dish a sweet creamy touch that could have doubled as dessert if it were on its own.
Leslieville is a great neighbourhood and Bero adds a relaxed sophistication to the already impressive stable of restaurants in the area. With good food and an atmosphere that invites conversation, Bero should have a lock on the locals and with people further out.
NOTE: I did not experience any ventilation issues, so I assume that's been corrected given an earlier Yelper's review.
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