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  • If you ever asked how the Mandarin Buffet might do an afternoon tea experience (I know! Who hasn't?), then Essence of Unionville is your definitive response. You start with a small-ish spread of savoury finger foods (ie bread with chicken salad, ham and other vaguely and not particularly well seasoned meats). Follow that with a much larger selection of tarts and desserts, punctuated by a fruit bowl that (judging solely by the lineup) was the star of the table. A forlorn chocolate fountain sits, by itself, on a long table beside a half dozen empty induction cooktops, wondering if perhaps the chef forgot to bring out half the menu. Somewhat oddly, you have no tea options, other than Red Rose tea. Their website promises a selection of Ten Ren teas, which is no longer the case. The seating is in the middle of the lobby of the Hilton, immediately adjacent to a busy hotel bar and a stones throw from an equally busy reception desk. The decor is upscale, with the obligatory "This-is-an-upscale-restaurant" wall of wines oddly situated 5 feet off the ground on a far wall. Service is attentive, if a little abrupt. The waiter gave us a confused explanation for why someone at our table could not refill his cup with coffee, since he'd first had tea. I guess, "We want to charge you twice" would be too transparently capitalist. This is not your Shangri-la or Windsor Arms afternoon tea experience. But I strongly believe that a restaurant should be judged by what it aspires to be, and Essence does not pretend to compete with your traditional afternoon tea. Instead, this is a child friendly, buffet style, boisterous, and busy place where you can eat as much, or as little, as you want at a fraction of the price that you'd pay for its more upscale peers. And with the more modest goal of presenting you with a family friendly AYCE afternoon tea, Essence of Unionville has knocked it out of the park.
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