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  • I came here in late-June to enjoy the backyard patio (quite leafy, intimate and quiet), and came back for more to celebrate Canada Day on the front patio with some Canadianized French and Italian food. Those who worry that a French restaurant is stuffy can relax. The sommelier wanders around in jeans and a casual shirt to help people choose just the right beverage. The craft beers from Ontario (wish there were more variety) have cheeky names. Allow yourself a cone of onion rings (the only thing French is French-fied) to taste how a gifted chef can pump them way up. Same goes for the French Fries. I've never had steak tartare before, and if you're the same, this is the right place to try it; beautifully served and delicious. In my book, The No-Nonsense Guide to World Food, i discuss the trend known as fusion -- the mix and match of various traditions and cuisines that is happening around the world. At its worst, it is Americanization with junk food. At its best, it's something like this -- a fusion of French and Italian and pop North American. The Beach only has two gourmet quality restaurants in terms of food quality and overall atmosphere, and this is one of them. If you're worried about the final price tab, do as we did both times. Order three appetizers and a drink. The staff are fine with that. If you come late, the chef comes around to chat and enjoy some fresh air a a breeze after an exhausting shift in a hot kitchen. A very charming fellow, and I like the tradition of meeting the chef who made your dinner and the sommelier who chooses drinks, rather than treating a night out as an anonymous relationship. My No-Nonsense Guide also emphasizes the way food has become personalized, rather than commodified, over the past 15 years, and this place exemplifies that shift.
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