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| - There are just two Madison restaurants where the food is always excellent and the service always impeccable; Graft is one of them (and Dan Fox's Heritage Tavern is the other). Lucas Henning, the owner, and the excellent managers, have left nothing to chance. The menu is exquisite, but describing it will only give you a fleeting glimpse since it changes over time. When an amazing sea bass was taken off the menu I was appalled--until I tasted the salmon with lentils and beets that replaced it; one of the best salmon dishes I've ever had anywhere. When the salmon was gone I was upset once again, until I tried the branzino that took its place. I learned not to second-guess what's on the menu and just order it anyway; I've never been disappointed. The graft mac and cheese is rich and decadent, the fried chevre with honey is delicate and full of flavor, the pork belly exceptional, the spare rib will leave you wanting more; even the bread is delicious. The fact that most of the menu items are small plates means you can try a lot of them, and share the joy of excellent cuisine with your friends. If you don't save room for dessert you will miss out on a pot de creme or perhaps a banana bread pudding (tragically, what was nothing short of the world's best carrot cake was rotated off the menu, and if enough of us complain about that it may just return!) The elegant atmosphere and the central location (right on Capitol Square) complement the overall experience. The service is very attentive as well, thanks to the hands-on owner and managers, and the great staff (both in and out of the kitchen). Graft is worth a try, and if you go once, you'll be back again with friends in tow. What a terrific experience!
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