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| - I really wanted to be tougher on this place, but, alas, instead it proved itself a worthy gem in the crown of the ever-burgeoning local Las Vegas restaurant scene. Conspicuously designed and plopped right in the heart of the humble, gritty, authentic Las Vegan Chinatown that already boasts a lively yet rightfully sincere array of brilliant eateries and options, Sparrow + Wolf overcomes its "try-hard" name and west LA envy with a disciplined, focused menu and high-level yet simple wine offerings that will leave any patron remiss for anything negative to say. Our party started with fresh Baja oysters which were exceptional in quality (usually they are overpriced and undersized at most places due to lack of discernment in selection). Moving on to lamb dumplings -- which offered house-made dumplings and exceptional lamb amidst a brilliant yet tangy reduction -- my only tip would be the dumplings were a touch too doughy and not enough texture despite the handcraftmanship (a simple cure of an extra 30 seconds on heat or perhaps higher heat). We also took in a wild mushroom dish over a hummus which was outstanding but the hummus clouded the spotlight and could be taken off the plate without a tear shed. Amongst a few other offerings, the star was the bone marrow offering -- which was rounded out and served with escargot. One of the best and balanced bone marrow offerings I've had in Las Vegas, this dish was a real star and substantial as well for a ridiculously great $18 price tag. Accompanying everything was a bright, brilliant blanc de blanc by Ruinart that truly, even if less so by the establishment's knowledge than by default, represents truly one of the best and most versatile champagnes to compliment much of their menu. Will be back and I didn't think I'd be so pleasantly surprised. Well done.
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