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| - I must admit that I went into this with 'pretentious bistroid' as my mindset, but going to the theater next door, thought I'd give it a try since it was closest.
Upon entering, the visual I took in was pretty much 'pretentious bistroid'. Another Pittsburgh joint trying to be all NY or LA in a city that will never BE NY or LA. I'd eaten there once before when it was Cafe Zao, and the atmosphere wasn't quite as pretentious, but the prices were truly outrageous, which was kind of what I was expecting this time around. I went for brunch, and I was pleasantly surprised to find that not to be so.
I found a few things on the menu that looked intriguing for brunch, and the waiter, an older gentleman, was actually very kind and helpful, more so than the pretty little youth prancing around, noses in air, as if their mere presence was a gift to the diners.
I was flipping between three choices, and the waiter helped me decide on the Corned Beef Benedict. We split an order of the pate, and each got coffee.
First came the water, in kitschy bottles, poured by the waiter and left on the table. It's kind of a lame attempt at 'theming' but theming only works if you go all the way with it. But when in Pittsburgh is anything ever taken to the enth degree, when 'meh' is viewed as fabulosity?
Next arrived the pate in an adorable little mini-mason jar, complete with the dual snap lids. Again, really? Cute, but highly unnecessary. It was accompanied by two pieces of toast, cut in four, and the pate actually needed another slice of bread to match portioning. However, the flavor and texture were very good. A decent little appetizer.
The coffee test passed. I never soil coffee with cream and sugar, even if it's REALLY bad. My friend however will use cream and sugar if it is weak. She didn't have to. The coffee was decent for a cup of Pittsburgh American Joe.
Brunch arrived. My friend had the short rib hash, and I had the Benedict. The lunch dishes didn't match the attempted 'theming' (nor does the decor), and my friend (who is blind) took one bite from her little trendy dish and the food slipped over onto the table. Again the waiter was extremely kind and helpful and brought her a real plate so she could eat without doing much damage.
The food...bottom line...was very good. Flavorful, not toy food (but not quite a Pittsburgh shovel full), filling, and done well.
The server was not totally aloof (not chatty), but he was helpful and efficient without throwing an attitude.
My friend expressed an interest in dessert, and tried the chocolate mousse, which I did take a bite of, and it was really delicious.
The check came to around $48...not bad for an appetizer, two coffees, two entrees and a dessert in what is a somewhat 'upscale' type place.
I can't complain about the food or the price for lunch. They surprised me very nicely.
My biggest complaint comes from the general atmosphere. The seating is a long upholstered bench along the wall, with TINY marble tables, and an armless armchair on the outside of the table. Had the place been crowded we would have been sitting WITH the people at the next table. Even with an empty table between us, we had to listen to the pretentious blurting of some food writer who was gushing all over the chef pretending that Pittsburgh was going to be the next gastronomical tourist destination...hate to break your heart sweetie, but Pittsburgh ain't going to be the next big tourist destination for ANYTHING until corruption money is funneled back into education, and yinzers stop partying like it's 1979.
I didn't quite know what to do with my feet as they either were resting on the cast iron legs of the tiny table, or had to be spread wide apart to hit the floor. One, the tables are too small and round for two for brunch, with water, drinks, a water bottle, sugar, creamer, flatware, side dishes...oh wait...it's ok...I have a lap. Two, I can't imagine this being more comfortable or accommodating for a larger dinner setting.
The attempt at 'theming' either needs to be polished to completion, or abandoned, because what they do have just looks silly in a highly over-designed architectural space. You want to go 'speakeasy', then do some research and go all the way. Otherwise, skip the kitsch and focus on what you clearly are doing pretty well...make good food at a fairly reasonable price.
I can't say this would be a comfortable regular haunt, but I would go back for a somewhat special occasion. Question is...do you want regulars, or special occasions in a VERY small market?
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