Gwartzman's smells like paper, which is the smell of contemplation and fulfillment.
It has a huge pen selection, lots of paint...basically it is a store full of very affordable art supplies.
The true delight here is the welcoming, truly helpful and friendly staff. I buy their sketchpads (cheap!) their fancy pens, the ink brush pens, the inks, the novelties, the glitter glues.
I *almost* buy the line that they're taking 10% off just for me.
But you know when I am there, I truly believe in the goodness of life.