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| - Southern food is an art. I use the term southern, whereas EllaEm's and many of the cafes of this type in town use Soul Food. I believe they are synonymous as both southern and soul food share almost all aspects. They most unifying similarity is they are both born out of poverty, and this is what makes southern/soul food an art. It is easy to make a fantastic meal when you have the finest cuts of meat and important spices with which to flavor the food. However, when you have to create magic from the poorest cuts of meat, vegetables that are easy to grow and considered common, and your spice palate consist of little more than salt, pepper and broth that is the example of a true artist. It is easy to paint when you have all the paints and a fine canvas, but to create something out of nothing with almost nothing shows real talent.
EllaEm's is artistry on display. It is fine southern food with flavor to spare. This is not a diet conscious restaurant where calories can be counted. It is instead a representation of a culture where food is used as an offering of love, and often the best of times happen around a dinner table. There is little pomp, and no circumstances here, just good food at a reasonable price...well mostly reasonable.
On my first visit I had the fried chicken (dark meat), fried cabbage, red beans and rice, mashed potatoes and gravy, and two corn muffins (my heart will never forgive me). The chicken was excellent, very moist and fresh with a good crispy crust. My one of only two complaints from the evening was there were only two pieces of dark meat chicken. The sides made it more than enough for a fulfilling meal, but one more piece of chicken would have made me feel better about the order. The red beans and rice were good, but not great. The mashed potatoes with chicken gravy were to die for. I must return to have the chicken and waffles with chicken gravy (for which my heart will once again curse me). I had the fried cabbage at the suggestion of my friendly and courteous, albeit somewhat slow, server (second small complaint) . The cabbage was perhaps the best part of the meal, and would win hands down if not for the corn muffin. Go ahead and order two at the start because one is just not going to cut it.
I would like to give EllaEm's 4.5 stars because of the two small discrepancies I mentioned above. I rounded up instead of down because ElleEm's is exactly the type of business I, and I hope you, like to support. It is local owned, not in a fancy location, and providing a good service at a reasonable price. I big you if you are wanting a good meal with a distinct American cultural edge, chose ElleEm's over any one of the worthless and "soulless" chain restaurants which litter our city. It adds wonderfully to the burgeoning community Vegas has so long needed.
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