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| - #HotSteamyBuns It almost sells itself, right?
I don't get into the whole "Asian fusion" thing all that much. It's not that I don't dig Asian food, I just find myself spending my calorie budget on more Euro-centric cuisine. I'm a schnitzel and gerkensalat guy, what can I say? So when the other half scored a Groupon for a pair of steam buns and a drinks at this here joint in Lakewood, it gave me an excuse to step outside of my comfort zone for just a little while.
The place has a pretty minimalist feel to it. Black and grey tables with chalkboard tops (and plenty of chalk nubs for doodling), a small bar in the front, local art on the walls. The high ceilings and big windows up front give the main dining room a nice airy and open feel to it. Great for snapping pictures, too. We arrived sometime around 5:30 on a Wednesday and we were the first customers. We eat with the "earlybird special" crowd and we like it that way. We were shown to a table by the front windows. Perfect. Others have complained that it's loud. Maybe later and on the weekends, but we'll never know.
In a nutshell, it's about Asian comfort food here, all done up with a slightly new-world, local bistro spin. Rice bowls loaded with fresh veggies, tender meat, and more umami than any person should shove in their face alongside familiar dishes with names like Pad Thai, Kung Pao and Ramen. They've got sushi, fried rice and interesting items like Wagyu Bibimbap, Short Ribs Gyudon, and Moo Shu duck. Everything's described in detail to help with your selection if you're not all that versed in the Asian vernacular and everything sounds yummy.
Oh yeah, and steam buns. You've gotta get some steam buns. These sticky, white, cloud-like, conveyances are stuffed with all sorts of tasty goodies and they're delicious. You get a pair of them for around $8 served with a side of sweet/sour cabbage slaw. The menu reads as a treatise on Asian classics. Be forewarned, everything we had (except the dessert) had some level of heat. If you're sensitive to this ask your server before you order anything.
On the drinks side of things, don't come here expecting to be blown away by a huge beer menu. Roxu is an Asian fusion restaurant, not an American gastropub. That being said, they do have four draught selections and a well-organized bottle list that I'm sure even the snobbiest of beer snobs will find adequate. Their beer prices are also a pleasant surprise, with most coming in around $5. Of course they've got sake, wine and cocktails if that's your thing. I remember seeing a sake flight on the menu for $9. I've never had sake, so maybe on my next visit I'll give it a go. My wife had some kind of specialty drink that was purple, had blackberries and blueberries in it and a sprig of mint. I don't recall what it was, but she enjoyed it.
The service we received during our visit was very good. Our server was helpful, although I could have done without the "let me rest my chin on your table while I talk with you" interaction. Why do servers feel the need to kneel down like that? Just makes me feel strange. Like I'm giving my order to a 6 year old. Anyway, he did a good job. Kept our waters filled, checked in often, all the usual good server behavior. He didn't really offer much info after we told him it was our first time, but not a huge deal. The important thing in this review is really the food. So...
Kung Pao Steam Bun - A little bight of heaven on a plate. Perfect level of heat, the cashew brittle is pure genius.
Grass-Fed Beef Steam Bun - Tender, moist unctuousness. The hint of smoke from the onions and the drippy crema. Asian-inspired drunk food.
Sticky Duck Wings - Get these. Slathered in a sticky, sweet, sour glaze you'll be lapping off the plate, they pack a punch. The meaty drumsticks are perfect for sharing.
Short Ribs Guydon Bowl - A rice bowl with balls. Tender strips of melt-in-your-mouth short rib, freshly sliced mild and slightly sweet shoshito peppers, and that house-made dashi. An umami bomb.
Apple Donut Bread Pudding - They had us at donut. A trio of ridiculously delicious bread pudding bites served with whipped cream, blueberries, vanilla ice cream and caramel drizzle. I expected more apples, but damn. Just damn.
I was pretty blown away by the food we had here at Roxu. It's rare that I take a bite and immediately know I'm in for an experience. Everything we had was immensely flavorful, incredibly fresh and prepared with a level of detail that's rare in restaurants at their price point. If you've got a typically dumbed down American palate it just might be too much for you. One bight of a Kung Pao steam bun and your head'll probably explode Jet style. Not to worry, though, Roxu is approachable, too. They've got dishes that'll gently lead you into their world along with dishes for the more initiated. Sure, I could have nit-picked my way down to a 4-star rating, but even I'm not that much of an asshole.
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