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  • I had my first bagel here in 1970, after 25 years of wonder bread (as in, wonder if it's bread). The Jewish population which once supported a range of unique food shops had started moving north after the 1950s, and the stores catering to an older wave of Jewish immigrants were vanishing one at a time. But the Harbord Bakery has remained and adapted to new waves of immigration, intermarriage within the original family, and gentrification (or perhaps, Annexification) related to the U of T and downtown youth scene. The result is typically Toronto food fusion. A "calandria" (take out section) sells fast food that's not junk food -- empanada and spanakopita, for example (both excellent), as well as basic ingredients for prepared salads. But much of the old Yiddish cuisine survives, including bagels, challah bread baked for Fridays and lox and cream cheese and bagel for Sundays. Foods and cuisines are not frozen in time, and more than any other item of culture, but, as I argue in my e-book Food for City Building, acquire the character of the place the food inhabits, even as the foods lend their character to the place. Harbord Bakery is now co-evolving with Harvest Kitchen across the street, and with a range of restaurants catering to the young and restless. Adding yet another reason to linger in this area, and do an edible form of archeology, excavating layers of the city's history, while adding to the unique income and job creation stream of each village within the larger Toronto.
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