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  • Maybe I'm just jaded at this point, but with a few exceptions I find a boring sameness among Toronto's many indie coffee shops. In some cases (like Dark Horse's), I wonder whether "Indie" is the right term any more. How many locations must one open before one loses indy creed and becomes a chain? Dark Horse sure has corporate branding down. A red-black nautical star beckons the caffeine-deprived to this location at the foot of Toronto's Chinatown-an increasingly trendy place for foodies, even as Chinese cuisine moves into the 'burbs. Inside, coffee is dispensed by similarly tattooed baristas with their rakish beards and plaid shirts and cultivated scruffiness. Look closely and you may see the store logo carried through on inked sleeves (though I suspect this is more a statement of individuality than hardcore corporate branding). The room itself is marvellously airy; a long shared salvaged table, high chairs (which are the bane of my existence) and a counter facing out to floor-to-ceiling windows that permit people-watching. These latter perches are the best thing about the shop. Park yourself for a great view of Chinatown traffic. Baked goods are fine; a few sandwiches, obligatory muffins clad in kraft paper, cookies made up to sound healthy-all stuff you can find elsewhere. Same for the coffee. I hate to say it but I'm growing cynical in my old age. There's only so many things you can do with coffee and steamed milk. Lattes are smoky and sweet from properly steamed milk. Cappuccinos feel a bit dry on the palate. A flat white is nicely balanced-perhaps the single greatest contribution Australia has made to world culture since Crocodile Dundee. There's also a good selection of teas, but that's just silly. Buy leaves and a kettle, and save yourself $3. As a dining experience, I'd stop in if I'm nearby but wouldn't go out of my way. For a rare afternoon off, I'd make the effort-if only for the view.
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