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| - Life is all about creating a balance. This idea translates to a restaurant with its elements of food, service and decor.
The gourmet taco shop La Condesa is still trying to find its own equilibrium, but the line of customers nearly out the door isn't giving the new establishment much of a chance.
La Condesa is located on 16th Street, just north of McDowell, in a neighborhood that's no stranger to tasty Mexican food, including Tortas El Guero and the popular Barrio Cafe.
With no shortage of good Mexican food, how does a new place stand out? They do things their own way.
You'll notice striking artwork on the walls. The art is beautifully lit, and from a visual standpoint it's hard to look away, that's until you see the salsa bar.
Once you place your order at the counter, you're given a number. Then have a seat and a staffer will deliver a basket of crunchy chips. This is when the fun begins, tapping that salsa bar.
On each of my visits, the salsa line up was never quite the same, with at least six to choose from. Standouts include an Avocado Salsa that was vibrant and flavorful, the chunky salsa Mexicano and the Creamy Cilantro Salsa.
If you run out of chips they will refill your basket, but try not to fill up on chips while you wait for your food, because you will indeed wait, and wait, and wait... On each of my visits the kitchen took from 15 to 45 minutes to deliver my order. But don't let this discourage you because some things are worth waiting for.
The tacos are served on two 6-inch corn tortillas. You can order tacos ala carte ($2.99 each) or as a two taco plate ($6.99) with rice and beans.
The beer battered Cabo Shrimp version was hot and fresh, yet perfectly crunchy while leaving the shrimp moist and tender. The Sonoran Carne Asada had a great flavor but was more like jerky, tough and dry.
Burritos were mostly a miss, while paying a premium ($7.29). You can choose shrimp or mahi mahi. Mine were filled with too much rice and not enough seafood.
However the Mayan Cochinita Pibil Burro ($6.99) was an absolute killer. Filled with luscious roasted pork shoulder, it was so tender you don't need teeth to eat it.
The handmade Corn-Quesa is going to bring me back. They take fluffy corn masa and fold it around your selection of fillings, then use their deep frying to create a unique and substantial alternative to tacos and burritos.
Being a purist, the Traditional Quesa ($5.49) was one of my favorites, simply filled with gooey Oaxaca cheese.
The same Oaxaca cheese is paired with the earthy flavors of mushrooms in the Maria Sabina Quesa ($6.99).
For me, the thing to order is the Azteca Tinga Quesa ($7.29). Stuffed with shredded chicken, tomato, onion and chipotle sauce, the flavors were complex and each bite was sheer bliss.
Service is friendly and on some nights you might even see the owner's kids helping out.
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