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| - tl;dr -- It's a restaurant, not a bar, with an extensive cocktail selection, but pretty boring otherwise.
It's quite hard to simply define what B&T is, so buckle up and prepare for quite the lengthy review. Nestled between Cityscape and a light rail track, it has guaranteed traffic, and an endless supply of Gen X-ers too square for the more artsy or happenin' locales. Everything about your experience is calculated so meticulously I am not yet convinced the owner is human, but rather an automaton programmed to run an establishment that's aesthetically pleasing but bereft of all character. It just feels that cold.
For starters, there's an iPad-wielding doorman behind a labyrinth of rope to estimate your wait time, and additional hosting staff in the curtained foyer. They will double-check that you are indeed allowed inside. I have had contact with fewer people before boarding a flight. Once you're in, there are several seating options ranging from the good ol' bar stool to tables for six, booths, and comfy couches. It is quite controversial that the head honcho, Ross, does not allow standing. I can understand and respect the virtue of enforcing this to maintain the integrity of his vision for a comfortable experience. But at the same time, the setup is wholly antisocial. It's not like a lounge in which you can merge seating to mingle with another group over some groovy tunes. It's all very rigid. You will stay put and have the experience you were meant to have. All with a playlist that sounds like Snow Patrol radio on Pandora.
Service is as attentive as it is impersonal...you will never wait more than several moments to have your next order taken, but you will never see a server for more than a half minute. They are consistently hurried. Unless you're at the bar...then they can let loose. A little bit.
I have found the dining options to be lackluster and gimmicky, seemingly constructed by basic undergrads who studied abroad once and totally want you to try this one cool fast food item previously unavailable stateside. Their take on anglicized curried chips is a welcome novelty for those who have not ventured to a culinary scene that isn't dominated by Latin flair. Unfortunately, it manages to be even more bland than a foray to Western European pubs who are better (worse?) at bastardizing cuisine than yanks. A different small plate, the "Seoul Fried Chicken" was intriguing on paper, and I have a mild appreciation for the creativity even after giving it a try. Mostly because of the pickled watermelon "kimchi". Unfortunately, the chicken itself was so tough and heavily breaded I might have believed it was simply delivered from the nearest Popeye's. It was rendered nearly impenetrable by my fork. I am mostly done with the food here. Someone may sigh and say I need to try their signature item, the ramen burger. But...how is a *burger* the go-to dish when juxtaposed with a drink menu boasting unparalleled depth?
I feel as though I may soon reach the character limit here, so allow me to administer some praise for the drinks. They are well-thought, and in many ways, well-executed. Your mint will be perfectly muddled, so you can go with the julep, but there are some unorthodox gems to be found as well. I am a big fan of the Corpse Reviver, a delicious gin-absinthe (my two favorite liquors) blend. Otherwise, I have given staff free reign to make whatever they want, and while I am pleased with their mastery of ingredient selection (detecting floral, citrus notes), I have noticed one disappointing motif: Weakness in every beverage. I don't want cocktails to absolutely destroy me by virtue of being downright difficult to consume. On the other hand, I don't want the sugary stuff from T.G.I.ChiliBee's that would pass for an alcopop in a blind taste test. B&T lands a smidgen toward the latter, whereas the ideal solution should be both flavorful and more easily sipped than chugged. The inability to distinguish this forces me to drop a star, the first deduction having been made for not knowing how to be fun.
This fills a niche in my downtown routine, as I have common cravings for new cocktails...but after one or two I'd much rather continue my night on the town elsewhere. Give it a try.
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