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| - An old Montreal classic, L'Express might be the most authentic Parisian bistro this side of the Atlantic. Imagine a long narrow space with classic checkerboard floor, stainless steel bar, tons of mirrors, hurried staff, packed tables, and most importantly, a jar of gherkin pickles on each table. Bright, loud, and bustling, don't come expecting a quiet romantic atmosphere, this a Parisian bistro, not the US version, damnit. And true to form, haute cuisine it is not - rather, emphasis is on hearty traditional French foods, impeccably executed.
Although the food is unpretentious, service definitely comes with attitude. This is a proudly FRENCH Quebec restaurant, not English, and if you don't speak French you are nothing more than a tolerated vistor. I can certainly distinguish my "poulet" from my "moules", but that basic knowledge doesn't take you very far when you are struggling to order "mousse de foie de volaille aux pistaches", whilst the waiter disdainfully looks on, glaring impatiently, visibly grimacing at the mangling of his precious language.
Also, you might need some help distinguishing the finer points of the French menu beyond basic vocabulary (god forbid you ask your waiter). So my suggestion is if you can, bring someone who knows their way around French cuisine and language to help ease the interactions. To his credit, our waiter was quite helpful when it came to wine recommendations.
From the dishes we ordered, I'd recommend the bone marrow with sea salt, the lamb with potato gratin, duck confit, and the quintessential hangar steak with frites. For desserts, the very potent baba au rhum is recommended for only the very rum-friendly. The flourless chocolate cake, however, should be experienced by every man, woman, and child on this planet.
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