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| - As someone whose experience of Szechuanese food over the years was confined to the generic Chinese restaurants on Spadina between College and Dundas, I held the cuisine in fairly low esteem, associating it with sticky sauces, fried salty meat, and a tepid spice profile.
So Backyard Garden was a total revelation! The heavy use of the Szechuanese peppercorn alone added a totally distinctive depth and dimension of flavour (the smoky, almost clove-like numbing effect that can't quite be described) and the food was legitimately, profoundly hot. Every dish is strewn with dried chillies, which while not individually searingly hot created a sustained simmering heat that really elevated even the most familiar dishes.
I was there for Christmas Eve dinner with my family, who vetoed some of my more unconventional choices (I really wanted to try the steamed fish) in favour of the old stanbys like kung pao chicken and sizzling beef, but even these felt like a new experience. I'm 100% certain I'll go back to explore some other corners of their menu.
I don't speak or read Chinese, but I didn't find it hard to understand and navigate the menu or to order, so this shouldn't put anyone off this exceptional culinary experience.
SIDEBAR/RANT: It's really unfortunate that downtown food has stagnated (with a few decent exceptions like King's Noodle House and Dumpling House) and that all the best Chinese restaurants are now in the outer orbits of Markham and Richmond Hill. There has got to be a robust market for good Szechuanese food right here in the city -- I suspect it's the sky-high rents that make it cost-prohibitive for profitable restaurants at the moment, another unfortunate consequence of the surfeit of gentrification that seems to be driving low- and middle-income small business owners out of the city (for the future of which see SF, DC and NY).
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