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| - I write this review with a little hesitance and mixed emotions. [Yeah, I get emotional sometimes, so what, go fuck yourself]
My usual rule of thumb is 3 times. If I go to an establishment 3 times and 3 times I am unimpressed, I don't go back. I have been to Model Milk about a half dozen times. Normally, you would think it passed the test, but I unfortunately have to say it hasn't. And like other "En Route" top new restaurants I have tried, I leave unimpressed every time.
I have mixed emotions because I secretly want this restaurant to be a number 2 new restaurant. I am friendly with the owners and many of my friends are good patrons to this establishment. But I can't fucking skew a review, just because... It would go against my Mission.
A few weeks ago, I dined here with my wife and another couple. It was her first time dining here, and my perhaps 6th. I was not going to return, but she wanted to try and I hadn't gone back since the it got it's article published in En Route.
We walked in on a cold night before Xmas, and sat at the bar for a drink while waiting for our friends. I must say the cocktails are quite fun and delicious. I won't use the term Mixologist, because quite frankly it is idiotic (i.e. douchy), but the bar and it's staff know how to mix a drink.
At one point we ventured to our table after meeting our guests and we decided to share apps and mains.
APPETIZERS:
1. Oysters on the half shell.
2. Fois Gras Parfait.
3. Beet Salad.
4. Rabbit Salad.
Oysters were not fresh and tasted off a little. Beet salad was OK, but lacked taste, Foie Gras Parfait was good. Rabbit Salad, was Meh! The Mortadella on the crostini was good, but the combination was weird.
Main Course:
The thing I remember the most about the main was the lamb. It lacked taste, although the jus/demi-glace was good. They grill the leg there. I guess I don't like grilled leg of lamb. Call me a traditionalist but it should be roasted slow and low. A leg of lamb is not very tender in general. If you grill a piece of it, the high heat will tense the meat. Lamb is one of those funny meats that really needs to be served medium rare, but needs to be cooked in such a way that some collagen has time to melt off, making it more tender. Needless to say, it was tough and did not taste very good.
There are props to be given. The space is unique and well designed. The service is very effective and unpretentious. The quality of all the ingredients are quite good.
I guess I just don't get it. Maybe I am retarded or have no clue about good food, but that can't be fuckin true!! C'mon...
The setting is extremely Bistro, and the menu has a bistro take, but I find there is too much fusion and not enough clarity in the preparation of the food. The Saucier/Entremetier (usually combined in North American small kitchen brigades: The one who grills meat and prepares sides for main courses) must be going bananas... So many different types of items and flavors, well prepared, but out of proper context. I WILL STRESS THIS POINT, there is a lot of talent in that kitchen. Chef, sous-chefs and the rest of the brigade know how to prepare the food. I just believe, and this is my opinion, there is too much unnecessary complexity in the final dish.
I really wished this place to be as true french bistro where I could walk in and eat one of the best Boeuf Bourgignon in Canada (a la Thomas Keller). In the summer have the best seafood platter and Nicoise salad... To me, if you are true bistro, those items or a good take on that needs to be somewhere and needs to be simple and well done.
ITS TOO COMPLEX.
I leave every time with no memory of the food, just the people I was with.
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