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| - I'd love to give Durant's five stars because it does so much right. It gets soooo close to "hitting for the cycle," but its home run--the steak--falls a tad short...
The unassuming exterior of Durant's is charming, in a way, especially when contrasted with the classic interior. Velvet red decor, nostalgia captured liberally in framed pictures, power-lunch seating layout, a lovely wrap-around bar, adult-worthy martinis, a great wine list, and exceptional service. It's just, the steaks...
You can walk into Durant's from the boring front door or through the rear, which takes you through the kitchen proper and to the hosting booth. The kitchen would be right at home in a 1930's NYC spot, and it is oddly appetizing to see how the sausage is made. I just wish, ugh, the steaks...
Every meal is preceded by bread, on the house. It's round, has a dense exterior and soft interior, and is drowning in a rich oil rife with garlic and parsley. It's quite a nice freebie for a steakhouse. Have one or two of their epic martinis, some bread, and tell them to take their time on the main course. Which will probably be their steaks....
If you want the full monty, take them up on their Oysters Rockerfeller or Stone Crab Claws. The latter is flown in from southern Florida and quite lovely (though pricey). Plus it's a model for sustainability: the crabs are caught, the crabs are relieved of their burdensome claws, and the crabs are returned to the ocean where they will regrow those claws. It's kind of a feel good way to eat crab meat, which combines so well with steaks. Speaking of their steaks...
Did i mention that their desserts are phenomenal? Doh, okay, I'll address my complaint about their steaks. I've been many times, and have tried the range: filet, ribeye, t bone, porterhouse, prime rib, etc. Of them, my favorite was the prime rib, and that is the issue. Every other cut should be superior to the prime rib. I'm simply not convinced that Durant's is sourcing the best cuts. The top flight of national steakhouses--and by virtue of price, Durant's intends to compete with them--source delectably marbled, prime steak. And you can tell when eating it. But Durant's doesn't seem to. The steaks are generally dry and indistinguishable from something you could get at a mid-range grocery store, or at an otherwise fine restaurant that does not focus on steaks. Those found at A-team alternatives (Mastros, Ruths Chris, Capital Grill, etc.) are consistently top notch, regardless of preparation technique. Don't get me wrong, you wont confuse Durant's with the leather served at Applebee's, but I suspect you will question whether your steak was worth $45. The prime rib is juicy, meaty, with a well-season crust, and very satisfying with au jus and creamy or raw horseradish.
Durant's gets A marks in all categories but one -- and the miss is in that most important category. If you're into prime rib, it's all A's, no question. If you're not, I recommend going elsewhere for your steak. I didn't elaborate on lunch, but it may be the way to go. Come in for a martini lunch on a weekend and try the prime rib or a steak sandwich as the main. All the frills without the price tag of a choice steak masquerading as prime. That sounds harsher than it's meant to be because Durant's is an experience worth having, but temper your steak expectations.
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