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| - According to Wikipedia "Pukka is a word of Hindi and Urdu origin, literally meaning "cooked, ripe" and figuratively "fully formed", "solid", "permanent", "for real" or "sure". In UK slang, it can mean "genuine" or simply "very good". I'll go with the latter because that's the definition offered by our server when I asked for an explanation. In this case the name/term is relevant because it's one the owners chose, I believe, as a moniker to define and distinguish their establishment. This leads to a potential debate: Is Pukka a genuine Indian restaurant? Certainly one of their dessert dishes, despite how good their exotic rendition, is not. Or is this just an attention-grabbing device by its proprietors?
Whatever the intent let me put your mind at ease that despite the authenticity splitting of hairs argument, it's definitely a place worth going to. That is if you are not looking for a classic, conventional, Indian restaurant. Think more along the lines of the well-established Amaya group of dining locations throughout Toronto. Or as Pukka's website describes it: Modern Indian. That also means that spicing is noticeably toned down. Is this a hallmark of modernity or appeasing Western diners?
Appetizers are the obvious place to start. Worth trying is their Chicken 65 ($9.90). I have eaten Indian food for over three decades, in three countries, and had never seen it on a menu. It could be because it is a Southern Indian specialty, versus most Indian food offered in North America which is predominantly Punjabi or Northern Indian in origin. There are several interesting explanations as to the genesis of this dish. The simplest seems most convincing. It was first offered in Chennai's, capital of the Indian state of Tamil Nadu, famous Buhari Hotel restaurant in 1965. Deep fried bite size chicken pieces are enhanced with ginger, garlic, chilies, vinegar and plenty of curry leaves - a de rigueur ingredient in this dish. Fried chicken, with more flavour than you might expect in a boneless version. My co-diner had to remind me on more than one occasion to slow down and take a breath between each forkful. It took all the restraint I could muster to do so.
There was no holding back by either of us as soon as we tasted the Okra Fries ($7.90). My fellow diner quickly announced that it was worth returning to Pukka for this dish alone! Dusted in chili and served with a side of Raita to cool your palate it's a real winner. Let me re-assure you that if you hold any hesitation about ordering it because of Okra's potential to be slimy, banish it from your mind. A common Indian staple but prepared split open in this dish, thereby eliminating any slick texture and then deep-fried. It could, if ever widely offered, give its' potato based counterpart a real run for its money.
Papri Chaat is a Northern based snack food which comes in many variations. At Pukka they call theirs: String Chaat ($8.90) and consists of string vegetables, sprouts, rice crisps, pomegranate seeds, mango, chutneys and yoghurt. The name modification is probably due to string vegetables and pomegranate seeds not being typical ingredients and hardly included in either a restaurant based offerings or packaged versions that are common at Indian grocery stores. Pukka's modern or innovative rendition is beautifully executed and has sufficient familiarity that will still remind you of the traditional one.
After reading many enthusiastic reviews we settled on the European sea bass ($22.70), which is pan roasted and sitting on a bed of lentils with tamarind and curry leaves. This dish presentation and ingredients are quite traditional with one notable exception. The lentils were pureed, a variation you would rarely if ever see in a more conventional establishment. I found this change of texture quite pleasing because the lentils took on the role of a sauce. giving the mild fish some heft and unexpected zest.
The final twist is their dessert offering of Eton Mess ($9). With no Indian culinary foundation or connection I can think of, I assume that Anglo-Indian ties that still bind inspire each other's cuisine. This well-known dessert derives its name from the independent English boarding school. According to the school's librarian it was served in the college's tuck shop in the 1930's and continues to be a favourite dessert throughout Britain. A real indulgence as the classic version is made of strawberries, broken pieces of meringue and cream. Pukka infuses it with Indian flavours by using lime meringues, including pomegranate syrup, and substituting regular cream for a sweet lassi one. A simple dessert that is transformed into a subtler version yet maintains its sweet, rich and absolutely yummy appeal.
Don't get too bogged down in the authenticity debate. Instead keep an open mind and savour Pukka's offerings, soon.
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