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| - Central Avenue and Plaza-Midwood are no stranger to Mexican food, but a restaurant that elevates and modernizes the cuisine is a welcome to addition to a neighborhood corner well known for good eats.
Comida aims to fill that space with a menu of items, both large and small, that hint at many traditional flavors and dishes while offering an updated twist on the familiar.
Even the space feels modern and new- with shiny wire metal chairs that are surprisingly comfortable even as they contrast agains the dark wood paneling and green turf walls. A long bar in the back is traditional, while a smaller bar with a view into the kitchen offers a newer view - where you can see the dishes prepped and plated continuously. The space is energetic and inviting, like a good spot to have an amiable conversation with friends.
The bar puts an emphasis on the margarita, with several takes from traditional tequila with triple sec and sour, to fruit-infused variations, using (separately) flavors of tamarind, jalapeño, and tangerine (all fresh squeezed and rendered in house). One highlight here: look for drinks marked with crushed ice- you are basically getting a margarita snowball in a cup.
Don't like Tequila or Mescal? Another option is a smattering of Gin based drinks. Wine and beer also also options, though the current beer selection of 2 choices (one light and one dark) is a bit sparse.
The food menu currently runs like most new restaurants- from snacks to small plates to share to larger plates and then a few selections appropriate for sharing. Prices range from about $5 to $25. There is a taco menu than ranges from $3 - $6 a taco with most of the usual protein choices you know, but there is also a vegetable option with poblano pepper and charred green onion that was a highlight. All the tortillas are made in house from scratch and have a pleasant thickness and chew to them. But don't think of these as traditional tacos, they are small enough to be a maximum of 2 bites. Sadly, my experience with these bite-sized choices was that they were too small to truly enjoy the flavors and seasoning of the meats. For example, a carne asada with a claimed chimichurri marinade was lacking in flavor. Another was the chicken tinga- nicely sauced, but was again bland.
There were plenty of other choices that were hits however- not to be missed is their take on traditional chips and salsa. Totopos are fresh fried tortillas with a crispy edge but a warm chewy center. Add a healthy dash of seasoned salt, the end product is very pleasing. Couple that with fresh made salsa (the spicy was bright and kicking without being over the top) or guacamole and you have a quick start to a meal that is very satisfying. I also tried the rolled cactus salad with freshly-made ricotta cheese. Light, but bright and perfect for a warm spring evening.
Dessert was also quite inspired as well- I had a chia seed ice cream with bread pudding croutons. The ice cream was nicely done- creamy without being too sweet, and the crispy flakes on top added a nice contrasting crunch to the dish.
Just be aware, servers are still learning the menu and take all orders on a tablet device. In all, I find this to be a hinderance as you watch your server continuously tap thru numerous menu screens and ultimately ask you to repeat you order again once they find their place in the interface. It certainly looks like form over practicality at this point, but I think there is room to improve this as the server team learns the menu and the app. I also found it a little jarring to watch your server swipe your credit card and hand you the tablet to add a tip while at your table- I like the emailed receipt, but the process needs improvement here.
There's more to explore here and worthy of a couple of trips back. In all, this is a great addition to the neighborhood but not a dive or cheap eats pick such as it predecessors in this location. Whether just drinks and some snacks, or a meal over several courses, there is great promise here and I'm looking forward to returning to explore the menu further, over another margarita.
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