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| - Open since 2002 after a test run at Toronto's famed Taste of the Danforth festival, Messini has paid its dues and become a mainstay for the after-work and after-bar crowd in the east end. Located just east of Chester station this cozy, diner-like hotspot serves up comfort classics like gyros and souvlaki with a pleasant touch of back-home authenticity.
Making the most of a rare trip to the Danforth my companion and I sampled widely from the menu, ordering a stack of appetizers, a sandwich and a grill plate. A great idea had I shown the good sense to skip the late lunch I had consumed just a few hours prior.
We decided to take the food as it came, with cold beers to keep us company between arrivals. First up was the Saganaki ($7.95), a generous wedge of fried cheese served with pita (fresh-made daily). Dense, firm, crispy and salty, it was more than enough to keep two of us happy and looking forward to the rest of the meal.
Next to arrive were the Kalamaki ($1.75 each), skewers of cubed pork, char-grilled and served with tzatziki. The meat was juicy and well-seasoned, with the dip offering a cool, refreshing hit against the savoury meat. At this price I won't pass by again without stopping in for one (or three).
We rounded out the starters with Greek Fries ($3.95). Ripple-cut potatoes lined a banquet plate, topped with a vast expanse of feta, olive oil and oregano. We guiltily indulged in this rich, dense creation, barely pausing for words between mouthfuls.
My friend valiantly challenged the Mixed Grill Plate ($13.95), a tower of shaved gyros, pork souvlaki, Greek-style sausage and a meat kebab (lamb and beef). Already subdued by the appetizers, he struggled to finish and eventually relegated the remainder of his plate to the next day's lunch, having thoroughly enjoyed every bite he could muster.
I turned my attention to what Messini claims is Toronto's best-tasting gyro ($4.58 for the sandwich). It's stuffed with French fries, the way you'd find it at a fast-food stand in many a Greek metropolis. Strangely, it was the only disappointment of the evening; while the pita was fluffy ad flavourful, the sandwich was a bit on the dry side and the fries made little contribution beyond adding some novelty. A bit more tzatziki would have done the trick - be sure to ask for extra.
Greek cuisine is inherently meat-intensive, and I for one am OK with that. There are a few vegetarian options on the menu, but vegans will be hard-pressed to put a meal together. It's not exactly fine dining, but the food at Messini will leave even the most devout carnivore satisfied at any hour (they're open until 4AM on weekends!) and the value is rarely matched.
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