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| - The worst thing about Yunaghi is the knowledge that dinner service will end.
Stepping into the restaurant on a Wednesday night, we were pleasantly surprised to find that it wasn't overly crowded, especially at the bar where we had requested seats.
After our first cocktails (the refreshing and fruit filled Sake Sangria), we embarked on the tasting menu with the regular drink pairing.
The first item sent to us was a Hamachi and miso amuse-bouche, in a Dashi tea. The small dish was delicate and sweet, the miso not at all overpowering.
Next, the sashimi" platter arrived, an elegant tile covered in wonderful confections, including a standout Chicken Sashimi. For those worried, the chicken is cured, not raw, and absolutely mouthwatering. Equally delicious, the Conch in stock practically defined the word "Umami". Less impressive, the Edamame mousse - which tasted bland and sticky - and the Shrimp jello, which consisted of an over-cooked shrimp in a cold gelatinous casing.
Our next course was presented with a flourish of smoke and drama - a "Dashissoise" playing both on the idea of classic French cold soup, and, well, Corned Beef. It was, for lack of a better description, effing yummy.
The fourth course consisted of a lovely "vegetable garden", complete with whimsical "soil" made out of fried Panko and olive crumbs. That 'Furikake' carried the dish. While winter melon is typically not the best Asian vegetable, the cubed and pickled gourd was crisp and fruity. A helping of fresh green peas certainly improved the vegetable course.
The middle of the meal was upon us, and so was one of the best things I have ever tasted. Chawanmushi, an ordinary egg pudding most Asian families are familiar with, was elevated to a height I had not expected, with the addition of Truffle oil and Grana Padano. It was comfort food turned into rich decadence, with the addition of two simple ingredients.
It was therefore disappointing when next, the Nanban course arrived with a lacklustre soue-vied salmon paired with a boring Harissa sauce.
Disillusionment did not last for long. The next platter, a play on a very familiar meal of ham, beans and sausage, was covered in a buttery white sauce and cubes of fried Boudin Noir. Creamy blood sausage, pork fat...what's not to love? The cleverness of playing with such familiar ingredients - much like the Chawanmushi - contributed greatly to the enjoyment.
Dessert did provide one last lovely surprise; savoury flavours mixed with sweet (such a sure facet of Asian desserts) was a wonderful way to end the evening. Who knew edamame and chocolate would work so well together?
Aside from the food, the wine pairing throughout the meal was not exactly great. Ontario whites - reeking of bad grapes - did not deserve the foods they were paired with. The one Sake we were served told me that for ten dollars more, the Sake pairing is probably the way to go in the future.
The clientele ranged from dignified Japanese men savouring every last item, to kids who didn't look up from their smartphones long enough to interact with each other, much less to enjoy the food set before them.
Ultimately, the bad of this dining experience did not come close to outweighing the good. For the price and the quality, this restaurant is worth revisiting.
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