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| - Federal Pizza Makes a Statement.
Once upon a time, back in the madcap '80s, some people had lots of money to blow on things like cocaine, South African gold krugerrands, and Cabbage Patch Dolls, or deposit their money in Savings & Loan bank-like institutions. Thanks to people like dead, local crook Charles Keating, who built the Phoenician Resort, the scandal of Savings & Loans cost everybody. Lots.
Flash forward: all the S&Ls went belly up. One ghost of the era was the derelict Federal Savings & Loan on the corner of Oregon and Central Avenues. Flash more forwarder: Upward Projects, who owns and operates area juggernaut Postino (whose bruschetta is GREAT, but not the BEST--that award goes to Cibo. End of subject.), the fab Windsor (with an amazing Crab Cake Sandwich) and Churn bought the white elephant. They've also purchased the defunct Aiello's Italian eatery next door. (Poor, old veteran, nearby Dairy Queen, better be afraid. Very afraid.) Economists call this a "monopoly."
Hence, Federal Pizza was born, as a nod to their ancient incarnation. The old S&L was gutted and fashionably remodeled with reclaimed materials, including a ceiling brilliantly utilizing stacks of corrugated cardboard to muffle the "thumpa-thumpa" music. The interior is light and airy in the daytime filled with business people and hipsters and intimate in the night, filled with hipsters and glitterati. The booths filling the center give you a spectacular stage for viewing the clientele and the open kitchen. One BIG boon is the charming Tom Risner, who couldn't be a better tuck trader serving investors.
The TLC Salad ($10) is a safe deposit standout with arugula, spring greens, beets, pears, smoked almonds, fennel, Pecorino and is a sparkling choice among the five salads. You can add chicken for $4.
Twelve very different interest drawing pizzas star on the menu. Each imaginatively conceived pie is 12" crafted by Master Baker (that's "baker") MJ Coe, husband of pastry artist Tammie. One features roasted Brussels sprouts,pancetta, Manchego cheese, roasted garlic and lemon zest. A variety of tastes make it a surprise, but if you don't like the cruciferous sprouts, you might stick with the more traditional Pepperoni or Four Kings Cheese Pizza. Most of these brick oven babies run around $13.
Four prime rate sandwiches are available, served on the fantastic house- made bread. However the Porchetta with slow-roasted pork loin, pork belly, arugula, carmelized onion and lemon ($10) was a bad debt: fatty, fatty, fatty!
May love be your next big wave. A side of crispy Polenta Sticks with Romesco Sauce ($4) earned a high appraisal.
The former Drive-Thru is re- purposed for "take away;" the fancy new-speak for "take out."
You won't have to dip into your Christmas Club Account to afford Federal Pizza, but you might want to save a few pennies here and there. Your account can add
up fast if you're a spendthrift. And you know where that got the Savings & Loan situation.
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