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| - There wasn't a single mis-step in the entire evening. Despite the high ceilings and the glass-wall view of CityCenter, the restaurant actually feels intimate. The entry is basically a wide place at the end of a hallway. There's a four-seater bar right at the door, then tables pretty much in two narrow aisles the length of the room with a raised area at the end. Every table would have a view, so no worries there (though we did get seated windowside, which was nice). Service throughout was magnificent; they're obviously proud of the restaurant and the menu, but they're not obnoxious about it.
The menu encompasses a huge range of items. Chef Gagnaire's signature, indicated by the restaurant's name, is his playful nature with food and putting unusual items together. My halibut came with a side of hibiscus gelee. Black cod came with asparagus ice cream. Get the picture? It was all very fun and a fascinating culinary exercise. Even if the exotic additions don't work for you, never fear--most of these things come on the side so you can add them or not. If you like the main ingredient of the dish, you'll be satisfied. Fish is still fish and meat is still meat; this is not one of those French places where they cover the food under a thousand heavy sauces. It's clean cooking. I give special marks to the halibut in lemongrass broth.
Portions are quite large, and in addition they brought out several amuse bouche items, including a tuna whipped with chantilly cream on rice crackers. (Whipped fish? Delicious!) There was also a memorable palate cleanser of Jack Daniels/Guinness gelee sprinkled with gingerbread crumbs. Really doesn't sound like it would be a palate cleanser, but it was. At the end of the meal, there's a plate of petit fours. Also, the chef sent out a complimentary side of steamed vegetables with our main courses. Very nice touch, considering the high prices. Value-wise, I thought it was good. The desserts and a couple of the appetizers were maybe a touch overpriced, but the quality is so high it's hard to quibble much. At the end of the meal, they asked for feedback on the menu and were willing to listen to even the smallest suggestions. We got the impression they plan to rotate items frequently.
A stop in the Mandarin Bar for a (very expensive) pre- or post-prandial cocktail is a must.
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