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  • There are many people in this world, especially in Pittsburgh, who wouldn't know "good atmosphere" even if it somehow miraculously came up and bit them on their posteriors -- or even if it had been created by the finest Hollywood set-designers. Zarra's has perhaps the most cozy atmosphere of any restaurant in Pittsburgh. And you would be hard-pressed to find a more classic Italian Restaurant Atmosphere in any restaurant in New York (with the exception of John's on 12th Street). When I hear people complaining about Frank Sinatra or dim-lighting or eclectic antiques, as one reviewer here has done, I want to ask them what they consider to be an appropriate atmosphere for an old-fashioned Italian restuarant. For many Pittsburghers, I'm guessing the answer would be: Led Zeppelin on the sound system, flourescent lights, great big posters of the Steelers, and lots and lots of cigarette smoke. Maybe some video games in the front. Plastic chairs. The beauty of Zarra's may in fact be wasted on many people here. That's okay with me, though, as long as it stays in business -- no long lines outside the door! Certain dishes are better than others -- the sausage is fantasic, the lasagna, not so much. But in general, what you get is classic southern Italian cooking -- in an environment that transports you out of the banality of our modern world. If you don't find the modern world banal, then perhaps Zarra's is not for you.
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