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| - I did what I could to keep it short for my review of Joel Robuchon, the exalted chef's fine-dining boite at the MGM Grand. I will make no such attempts in conveying my feelings about Chef Robuchon's small-plates restaurant, L'Atelier.
Robuchon (the restaurant) could be well personified by Grace Kelly, regal, elegant, breathtaking perfection... L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon might then be personified by Catherine Deneuve... coquettish, modern, a little more casual but no less enthralling. If Grace Kelly belongs on a pedestal to be quite rightly worshipped, then Ms. Deneuve seems a better fit between the sheets on an extended stay at the Hotel Georges V.
It would be far simpler a task for me to juggle two Buicks than it would to choose between Kelly and Deneuve. A similar quandary, it follows, to what I face when attempting to choose between Joel Robuchon and L'Atelier. Sometimes, though, these choices must be made and to be quite frank, courting a real Princess for more than a day might grow tiresome in the balance. Reluctantly then, I admit that if forced to, I cast my long-term lot with the fair Ms. Deneuve. In the same light, I would have to confess a slight preference for L'Atelier, a spot at which I would quickly agree to eat every single night. Here's a few reasons why...
Le Cocotte- Parsley puree at the bottom of a martini glass, topped with mushroom cream, and a raw egg (stay with me) and then more mushroom cream and a couple of sauteed mushrooms on top. Then they put the whole thing in a steamer until the egg whites *just* set. Creamy, yolky, mushroom-ey.. the richness of it all cut perfectly by the bracing green-ness of the parsley puree.
Le Langoustine- the sweetest langoustine you've ever tasted, wrapped with a basil leaf in a thin sheet of brik dough and quickly deep fried. Plated with a micro greens salad and basil pesto. Seriously, I could eat 50 of these.
Le Thon Rouge- Thin slices of tuna arranged on a plate with tomato-infused oil and sea salt. You can really taste the tomato in the oil and I don't know how they do that. Perfectly salted and the texture of the tuna is as magical as a first kiss.
Le Saumon- A healthy portion of house-smoked salmon, plated with a potato waffle (with really deep wells, more surface area, more CRUNCH) and dill cream. The creamy crunchy potato, the smoky salty salmon, and the cool and herbaceous cream all conspire to create what might just be a perfect plate. 10 out of 10.
Le Caille- Quail stuffed with foie gras and coated in a citrus glaze. I am careful, as a gentleman, to confine my profanity to special cases. That said... holy fucking shit this is good. Served with a small pot of truffled potato puree prepared to the following ratio - 1 part potato to 1 part butter. It is not uncommon for a fight to break out over the last spoonful.
Le Foie Gras- Raviolis of foie gras in a chicken broth with Thai basil and herb cream. The ravioli are quite salty at first, but then it becomes apparent that they are a perfect foil for the rich chicken broth in which they float. The basil and cream add top notes and bottom notes and once again you are transported by a mere food item to some magical place where the London Philharmonic plays neighborhood concerts and hundred dollar bills rain from the sky.
Ris de Veau- Here's where we get to what might be the defining characteristic of a restaurant of this caliber. I wouldn't dare order sweetbreads at just about any other establishment. No thanks. But at L'Atelier? Mais bien sur! Seared on the outside, creamy on the inside, stuck through with a sprig of holly and plated with a lettuce leaf stuffed with onions and butter. One of the best things I've ever eaten and I almost let my prejudice prevent me from ordering it. Shameful.
Le Chartreuse- A souffle made with green chartreuse liqueur and topped with pistachio ice cream. Words cannot express how good this is. Eggy, Sweet, and a little flowery. Suffice it to say that it tastes like heaven in a ramekin.
Chocolate Sensation- Let's see if I can remember this right... melting Aragani chocolate on the bottom, then a disc of chocolate on top of that, then white chocolate ice cream on top of that, and then oreo cookie crumbs on top of the whole thing. Rob a bank if you have to. Kidnap a rich kid. Sue McDonalds for scorching your naughty bits. It will all be worth the effort to secure a bowl of this.
Look, I know I go a little overboard sometimes. I am well aware of my bias. But if you are looking to sample cuisine that is executed at the highest possible level... trust me, if you've got a steady job you can well afford the tariff of a visit here. My precious L'Atelier... that haunts me in my sleep and in my troubled mind weaves daydream tapestries of earthly abandon. Soon, my dear. Soon I will return to your loving arms and we will write epics to make Chaucer blush, and Shakespeare jealous. I am already counting the days.
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