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| - Dropped in today with a couple co-workers after deciding it was time to expand the lunch rotation and try something new. First thing to know, Al's is actually a chain that appears based out of Florida and is aggressively trying to expand (or the back page of the menu boldly advertising franchise opportunities is a gaudy misprint). Still, this is presently the first and only location outside the sunshine state, so it was worth a go.
The interior is quite modern with clean lines, natural stone, neutral colors, and a distinct lack of clutter and (thankfully) TV screens. Booths are extra long and could easily seat six, but allow a party of 4 to really spread out. A separate bar area and outside patio are also available. Clearly a lot went into the up fit here.
The menu is a leather-bound tome and particularly heavy to hold- but at least it is organized. Subs, salads, traditional italian classics and pizza dominate here. Clearly going for mass market appeal, there is little here that you will not have seen and heard of before. The kitchen is clearly focused on production, not creativity. I was, however, pleased to see smaller lunch portions of entrees and a handful of combos for lunch. No doubt this place will appeal to the lunch time crew punching the clock and those looking to just eat and go.
I tried a meatball sub and salad combo on my visit. The house salad was bright, crisp and came with a very pleasant house balsamic vinaigrette that is made with roasted garlic. Tomatoes were mush, however, and made me glad I didn't try anything caprese. The sub I had was quite large and the marinara sauce was a highlight: bright, light and fresh. The meatballs, though, were not house made and appeared very pre-fab. They lacked texture and any independent flavoring.
Given that they put 'pizza' in their name, I also tried a slice to see why they boast being a 'best of Jacksonville' for so many years. Bottom line: Aside from the marinara sauce, I am mystified. First, all lunch slices are cheese only by default. Toppings are $.50 to $.60 a piece (per slice) and are simply laid on top of the cheese slice before it goes back into an oven and then onto your plate. Again, good for a mass market but a total let down personally.
Also, while the crust is thin, it is utterly devoid of anything approaching tasty. The dough is either completely overworked or lacking of any yeast and time to rise. It was tasteless and just flat. The final product lacked any lightness with air pockets or a contrast in the exterior and interior of the crust. Artisan, this is surely not.
Service was, however, quick and attentive.
So, while there is little doubt Al's will appeal to those looking to lunch as more of a task than an experience to be savored, it is not a standout. It's aiming for the mass market and it is not craft food. So long as that's okay with you, Al's has you covered in a pleasant environment. If your expectations for food quality are a bit higher, however, I'd continue the hunt, especially in the pizza department.
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