| rev:text
| - The S.O: Hey, my mum wants to go to Biff's for her birthday.
Me: Is that the Frenchy-looking place on Front Street?
The S.O: Yeah.
Me: OK, let's see what Yelp has to say.
**Screech in the record** From the reviews that pre-date mine: "Subpar food...awful service..." "I would not go again." Ruh-oh. Based on these reviews, I wouldn't want to eat here. But I wasn't going to be the Yelp nazi who 'jacks an old lady's birthday plans. (At least not this time, anyway.)
But, actually, our experience was not that bad. Biff's is owned by the Oliver Bonacini restaurant group (Canoe, Auberge du Pommier) and I think someone competent went in and cleaned house because both the food and service were better than previously reported.
FOOD
The French classics are here, and, yes, they've been tweaked. Sometimes the revamp works; the mushroom soup ($10) was enriched with earthy mushroom flavor instead of heavy cream, the way it would've been in the pre-coronary-awareness 1970s. The chicken liver parfait ($12) was a light, delicious near-foam served with croutons, and tangy cornichons and four-grain mustard, both made in house. So far, off to a five-star start.
It's when the entrees arrive that the revamping seems more about the chef's conceit than delivering what diners want. Like with New Coke and words like "hubster," why do you mess with the originals if your version isn't a marked improvement?
The S.O.'s boeuf Bourguignon was deconstructed to the point of ridiculousness; chunks of braised beef were served on a plate--a plate, not a bowl!--with dollops of pomme puree and Chinese cloud ear mushrooms with barely any stewing liquid in sight. This is not how Amy Adams made it in the movie, Julie & Julia.
My roasted arctic char ($26) was bland and overcooked, whereas the bed of lentils de Puy it came on were bland and undercooked.
The birthday girl reported that she was happy with her grilled calf's liver ($19). She also loved her dessert, a very rich and dark chocolate torte served with pear puree. Without prompting, the pastry chef scrawled Happy Birthday on the plate. Thankfully, nobody sang.
They have an extensive wine list with prices ranging from moderate to my last paycheck.
SERVICE
The hostess, head server, and back-up server all seemed to have graduated from the Professional, Attentive and Slightly Stiff Academy. My favorite, though, was the adorable waiter-in-training wearing a white bellhop jacket who just seemed excited to be there. He didn't mind my silly questions about his jacket and the name of the restaurant. (Biff is Willy Loman's son in Death of a Salesman.)
VIBE
Much more classy and formal than how I usually roll but the setting was perfect for the guest of honor. Biff's looks like those grand Parisian brasseries with big mirrors, vintage posters, and cabaret music. Couples, old and young, were dining the night we were there. The space is huge, and I imagine when it's at full swing, Biff's would be buzzy and fun.
BOTTOM LINE
A lovely celebration restaurant with an old-fashioned vibe and new-fashioned food. The decor and service will impress dates and mothers.
3 stars
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