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| - ...With its deceiving shoe-box signage outside, the restaurant is actually composed of two good sized dining rooms and floors. After poking our heads through the front door curtains, we were walked down a long hall of appropriately spaced tables, adorned with old black and white photos on our left and an adjacent bar on our right. Barely visible to our table in this downstairs section was a large open kitchen dining room and an additional enclosed table along the wall upstairs. Actually, had I not had that extra cocktail and needed to seek out the ladies room, I might have not even noticed the additional space. While the rooms were certainly set up differently, the atmosphere throughout the restaurant was comfortable, breathable and cheerful. Lights were dim enough to allow for the table-top tea candles to emit a radiant glow, but thankfully, were not so dark that I may mistake my surroundings for one of the neighbouring clubs. Likewise, noise levels were kept to an ambient, agreeable level. It was just loud enough to create a buzz, but never so noisy that I felt myself strained to hear my partner or server speak. This is unfortunately a pleasure I don't find so often anymore. I also appreciated their clear attention to the thermostat, and the heavy wind-breaking curtains at the front. While in all honestly, I didn't experience RS in in bare-leg cocktail dress (come on, the two of us are so past that dress-to-impress phase), I'd bet I would get through the meal without a single drafty chill.
From the moment we walked in, the service was friendly and unpretentious- our jackets were hung, our drinks were poured, our meal was well timed and prompt (in and out in 1 1/2 hours). While of course, having drinks refilled, and cutlery replenished is a very important attribute of good service, I am always more interested in smiles and enthusiasm and even a little humour when eating out. Thankfully, at RS, they've nailed them both, embodying a professional, yet pleasantly relaxed atmosphere that exudes feelings of warmth and welcome.
The drink menu predominantly draws attention to its good selection of local and international wines, about a third of which are available to drink by glass or half bottle. They also feature an interesting variety of craft beers (draft and bottle), and about 7 different house-made cocktails. I was honestly drawn by nearly every cocktail on the list, so I employed the server to help me make choices. Throughout the evening we sampled the Tequila Sour (Tromba, Egg White, Lime and Agave, $14), Cranberry Old Fashioned (Marker's Mark, Muddled Cranberries, Winter Syrup, $15) and French Twist (Zubrowka Vodka, Heering Cherry, Pineapple, $12). While all of the cocktails were easy to drink and well-balanced, I found the flavours of the French Twist the most pleasantly assertive and enticing. We also went for a half bottle of the Malbec "Ben Marco" fromDominio del Plata, Mendoza ($41), which made for a really smooth red wine to carry us through our meat-heavy mains.
Food at RS followed the theme set by the atmosphere, service and Heinrich himself- it balances cozy and comforting, with fresh and effortless beauty. Here you won't find pretentious descriptions, overly-complicated preparations, or fad-driven items to distract from respectfully treated proteins and seasonal veg. But rather, RS offers a "Pantry" and "Daily Chalkboard" menu full of familiar, yet inspired farm-to-table flavours. The kind of foods you might think of if a really sexy bachelor or bachelorette were to cook you the comfort foods you grew up with- what could be hotter than that?
Well, after some coaching from our server, we opted to share a good sampling of both their regular menu items and specials. We went for:
Salumi Board: Chocolate, Miso, Cassis, Burgundy, Walnut with Pickled Veg, Beet Chutney, Spicy Mustard, Crackers, and Bread with Baco Noir Vinegar and Olive Oil ($18)
A unique selection of gorgeous charcuterie, each with their own subtle nuances and textures. While the thought of chocolate salumi originally made me think of some gross-out lunch-room dare, it turned out to be the favourite of the night. I loved the mildly bitter aroma and slightly creamy texture of the chocolate against the salty satisfying chew of the fatty meat. I also particularly loved the beet chutney rolled into a slice of the rich walnut studded pork. A great, sharable start to our meal.
Crispy Confit Chicken Wings: House-Made Kimchi, Soy Chili Salt ($12)
Thank goodness there were an even number of chicken wings for us to split, because odd-numbers of tasty-fried foods are really not a good way to kick off date night. These chicken wings were seasoned to perfection with an umami rich salt that brought ...
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