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  • In order to satisfy my slightly unhealthy Top Chef obsession (not to mention my slightly unhealthy Tom Colicchio obsession), I put 'wichcraft near the top of our must-eat list while in Vegas. Lucky for us we were staying at the MGM, so at lunch one afternoon we tore ourselves away from the pool long enough to pop in, get our sammies, and pop back out to the pool deck. Unfortunately, the best thing about the sandwiches was the pool deck. We'd had dinner at Craftsteak the night before (Ohhh. Emmmm. Geeeee.), so my expectations were high. I get that a sandwich place isn't going to be nearly as top end as a steak house, but this is Colicchio we're talking about -- he has standards! Not sammie standards apparently. We tried the grilled Gruyère with caramelized onion on rye, and the grilled mozzarella with provolone, roasted tomato, and black olive tapenade on country bread. Both were so impressively pedestrian. I could have easily made those bad boys on my home panini press....if I had a home panini press. The Gruyère was the most disappointing: the onions had the texture of that tough, papery, greenish outer layer of onion you peel and discard before cutting, exactly because they'll cook up tough and papery. The mozz 'wich was a lot better and tasted a little like pizza, but it was kinda soggy. The bread on both sandwiches was nothing special, either. Just really average sammies all around. What saves this place and made me grudgingly give it a third star was the frickin' amazing whoopie pie. Seriously amazing. Two ridiculously moist cake-cookies sandwiching a huge dollop of eclair-tasting custard filling. 'wichcraft's saving grace! For the price, and for a Colicchio endeavor, I wanted my mind to be blown. And it was, just not in the way I expected. And not in a good way. [Top Chef: Tom Colicchio]
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